HomePlug Devices Between Buildings / Data Speeds Are Limited To About 5 Mb?
Oct 27, 2011
I have two buildings on my property that I need to network together. One is my home about 3500 Sq. Ft. and the other is a garage about 3000 Sq. Ft. The two buildings are about 250 feet away from each other. Both are fed from the same utility pole that is half way between them. That means both are on the same transformer, but each has its own metered electrical service.Right now I am using 10 Mb. Home Phone Line network adapters. They work OK but data speeds are limited to about 5 Mb. of throughput and the adapters are no longer available. I also have WiFi at both locations but neither one will talk far enough to cover the other building.I also use X10 remote controls in my house. I have tested them from the house to the garage and they do not work at all over that distance
I've recently upgraded the configuration on one of our 1130 series standalone access points. I've implemented RADIUS authentication, WPA2 encryption etc. in an effort to make our network more secure. While this part seems to be working as planned, our data transfer speeds have taken a major hit. On our test AP, with only one laptop connected, the laptop will report a connection at 54 Mbits. When using any speed test service the speed reported is approximately 15 Mbits. We have 100 Mbit internet, and desktops connected to ethernet show much higher speeds. When transferring files via our own LAN, data transfer rates average approximately 2 Mbytes/second. I've tested this on 3 separate laptops, some relatively new, and it seems they all get the same speeds.
Long story short, our wireless seems to be operating under a third of its reported speed.
On my laptop, I get horrendously low speeds on our modem, but on my iPhone under the same WiFi, I get very fast speeds. On my Laptop, pages render very slowly, YouTube won't load etc. I also can't do online gaming or anything.What's causing this? I've tried the ol' 'turning it off and on again' trick for every thing but it doesn't work. I tried connecting it to the modem and it went slower!
i have had a DIR-655 Rev. A router for years now and had no problems connecting my laptop to it well over 150m, the iproducts never got over 65m, i'm OK with that if they just won't but i would like to get there if possible. i went out and picked up a 2nd 655 (rev B) and flashed the bios up to the newest version 2.03NA and went in and mirrored all of the settings from the original router and then replaced the old router with the new one. the old router is not being used at this time though there are plans to use it as an access point later in another part of the house. i have updated the drivers for the wireless N card on my laptop (i can't remember the name of the adapter or the model, i'll provide that when i go home for lunch today). i've tried various settings for security, (i want to use WPA2 only, personal key, AES cipher, channel width 20/40 auto) i've even tried no security and it still won't connect over 65m.
Just bought a dir-655, set it up (all though the wizard wasn't working, it kept getting stuck on step 5 of 7) so I just configured everything manually.I'm getting 2.4 MB/s speeds wirelessly.I was expecting much better, my wireless g linksys router did just slightly lower than that. My xbox 360 can't even stream HD without buffering every few mins. It also will just stop, and be unable to see the media for a couple minutes (when doing HD).I have wireless setup as WPA2, and the devices I use wirelessly are N devices. I have the router setup to only use wireless N.
I'm having a problem where my connection speeds slow down on my iOS devices. I have a EA2700 router. I have PC hard wired into the router, which maintains steady speed test numbers when other devices slow down.i have another pc that connects wirelessly (2.4 only) that maintained speed white the other devices slowEd down. Both my iphone5 and new iPad would slow down. The quick fix wasto turn the wifi on the device off, then the speed would return when reconnected. Also clicking "renew lease" in the iPhone wireless settings seemed to correct the issue.I'm not sure if there is a setting on the iOS devices or the router I can change to stop this.
I have several network shares in my home using two different NAS devices.I am looking for recommendations for backing up the data on these devices.I currently use CrashPlan for backing up my computers.I have 1 share (documents) that I would like to somehow get backed up to CrashPlan (I'm not specifically tied to CrashPlan, it's just what I'm using now). The rest of the shares I would like to just backup locally in the event of hard drive failure.I have tried having my iMac mount the documents share automatically and include that in the CrashPlan backup, but it seems unreliable.
I have small WiFi home network based on WAG120N router. Two Macs, iPad, iPhone, two iPods etc and, unfortunately, endless series of problems. Devices can't see each other - iPad can't see iPhone and vice versa. Syncing of data between devices sometimes works but most of the time it don't. And so on, and so on... I have to restart WiFi on Mac and on iPhone to sync i.e. iBank data. PhotoSync between iPad and iPhone doesn't work but once (?!) it did.
With all the WiFi ready devices that kids (and adults) have these days, a limit of 5 targetted devices for permissions is hardly enough. I suggest increasing that limit to at least 10.
Region : UnitedKingdom Model : TD-W8951ND Hardware Version : V5 Firmware Version : 22.05.2012 ISP :
I have a TD-W8951ND v5 on the latest firmware.
I recently broke my broadband data cap which surprised me as I had not been using the internet much.
I only have tablet which I switched off having first checked the router to make sure there were no other wireless connections and adding MAC address filtering to be sure no one else was stealing my bandwidth. With just my router connected to the ISP, my ISP has recorded 170MB of downloaded data in 3.5 hours. Switching off the router stops the traffic being recorded (as you would expect), but when switched back on the large data transfers start up again.
I have plugged in an older router (not wireless) and no traffic is generated, so it seems to be the TP-Link router rather than my ISP or ADSL circuit that is at fault.
My next door neighbour has just installed a Virgin Super Hub and has 2 Homeplugs on his network. I have a Netgear router and 2 netgear homeplugs on my network, His network is giving my wireless router an IP address which changes my default gateway. Can I stop this by changing my default gateway and subnet mask? if so how and what to?
I have recently bought a homeplug to connect to the internet since my broadband is downstairs from my pc. I have plugged in the two homeplugs and connected them to my pc and broadband with a ethernet cable. When i turn on my pc the ethernet light turns on (same for downstairs) but after installing the software and trying to search for my wifi a message pops up saying "The homeplug adapter has NOT BEEN DETECTED. Please check your computer cables". So i did so, i chnaged the sockect moved the ethernet cable to a diffrent slot and still it says it has not been detected. This is very annoying and i really want to get it fixed.
My Belkin F7D4301 Router has the fastest wireless speed of maybe 2MBps but wired with a cat5e cable to my asus laptop of almost 7MBps. I have a one smart TV, one blue ray, one roku, and a nexus 7 using the 2.4 channel.
My Wireless 2.4 settings are channel 11, Extension channel 7, Wireless mode N (have tried with just g and b, g, and n modes), Bandwidth 20/40, Protected mode on, QOS off.
I've talked to Belkin tech support, they are the ones who had me set up my 2.4 channel this way but my wireless speeds stay just under 2MBps, they just want to keep sending me the same model Router because they think each of the new ones they send me is defective.
Am I doing something wrong or is 2MBps the best wireless speed I'm going to get?
I have the following network setup. I have a dynamic IP address from my ISP. I connect my fiber to a D-Link DIR-645 and set up my wireless network. The coverage is kind of poor in my son's room so I use a D-Link Powerline Homeplug 501AV to extend internet to my son's room. I connect one Homeplug to the DIR-645 and set the other Homeplug in the power outlet in my son's room. It works if I connect his PC or Xbox via an ethernet cable to the Homeplug in his room. Since he has both PC and XBox I have connected a D-LINK DIR-100 to the Homeplug and have two ethernet cables connecting to his PC and Xbox. Here is the problem. I don't get an internet connection to the DIR-100.How shall I configure the two routers to work?
I have a beautiful old home but, the walls are thick and WiFi signal dies easily. Is a Homeplug system safe for my old home? I am hoping to convert our current upstairs router into an access point/repeater for the downstairs router via DD-WRT. The issue is that the upstairs WiFi is on the 3rd floor and the downstairs in on the 1st and I will not be stringing an Ethernet cable through the walls.
Today I set up a home network:Cable router plugged in to......Homeplug network, (D-Link DHP-307AV/B 200 MBPS PowerLine Homeplugs) plugged in to a LAN port of......a spare adsl router configured as per here: Connecting Additional Routers | Tech Support Forum...with two desktop machines plugged into the LAN ports of the ADSL router.Both of the desktops have got similar specs, are equi-distant from the ADSL router, and are both connected using Ethernet, not wireless.One of them gets a 9MB/sec ADSL [URL]download, the other can't even bring the webpage up and times out if you ask Google to do a search.Taking out the adsl router and plugging the desktop straight into the homeplug gets a network speed of ~13MB/sec on [URL].Plugging a computer directly into the cable modem gives network speeds of ~40MB/sec on [URL] How can I improve on this, and have it so that both machines can access the Interwebnet at a decent bandwidth?
I just installed a E4200, and found that once I connected my Homeplug Powerline to E4200, the connected (wired / wireless) computer (with E4200) connection will be dropped. The connection become normal again once I disconnected the Homeplug with E4200.
I just got E4200 and it seems my homeplug is not able to connect to router. I don't see it listed in DHCP Table under status. I could only see my Desktop was connected. Are these two not compatible? Homeplug works fine my old router which is Trendnet TEW-452BRP.
Two buildings on same farm property 660 feet apart. Cable internet to one building does not reach 660 feet to second building and the cable company will not put it in. Wireless between the buildings is not out of the question; but, I've never done anything this distance before and I am concerned that signal loss over 660 feet might degrade throughput.
So, what is a feasible way of getting the signal from the first building 660 feet to the second building?
i need to draw a picture of a network being divided into two buildings one with 100 connections and the other with 560 connections and also need to assign ip and subnets on them. how many routers do i need for this?what class of ip do i need to use?what are the subnets
I've recently lost my ability to access the internet at uni and as this is quite an inconvenience I am considering some alternatives, the most viable one I've managed to come up with hinges on the fact that I live in a building which is only a road and another building away from the main uni buildings (3 buildings on 2 city blocks), basically it looks like this: UNI BUILDING 1 | UNI BUILDING 2 |ROAD| UNI BUILDING 3 |ROAD| MY APARTMENT.So I'm thinking of building one of these: url.. or waiting for the r20000g (dual band) to come out and buying that.THEN the area I'm having a bit of trouble with: I need to get reception about 600-700m away through buildings, so I've been looking at Yagi antennas and such but can't seem to find any information on the following:
1. Will a high powered directional antenna go through a few buildings and still make it 1km (.6 miles)
2. How directional is a directional antenna? like if I point one in the general direction of the building how accurate do I have to be? (I have no problem buying 4-5 antennas if I need to)
3. Do I need a new Wi-Fi antenna for my laptops? it seems odd to me that a laptop would be able to transmit back 1km while I need a giant antenna to get to the laptop (I know its not this simple but it still seems odd)
How to design network with two buildings. each buildings five- storey buildings.buildings 1 has 200 computer and buildings 1 has 150 computer. which topology and cabling to use
Plan a network to Connect 2 buildings 3 storey high with a distance of 500m between each building. Each floor is occupied by the Finance Department, Administration Department and Computing Department.the report should have the following items. Anything extra is encouraged.
a. Introduction b. Network Diagrams c. Devices that will be used.
I've been in a home office for the past 2 years with 30mb internet, but I will be getting an office soon downtown. The building I'm moving into has free wifi, what is my best option to connect to this with my desktop?
1. Using an ethernet cable from my desktop to my ASUS rt-56n router as a bridge to connect to the buildings wifi.
2. Buying a wireless adapter to connect to the buildings wifi.
My phone only gets 2 bars when connecting so I'd like to know which of the options above will give me a faster and more reliable connection.
I need to a run an Ethernet network between 2 buildings 1000ft apart. The buildings are in a forest so I don't think wireless is possible. What kind of cable can I run between the two buildings and what type of adapters do I need on each side?
I have 2 of these in a Bridge between 2 buildings. Cisco support replaced them with 2 BRAND NEW units after 6 weeks of waiting, that do the same thing. Spent so many hours on these turds it is insane. the thing goes down with the wind, tinker with it and maybe you will be up for a few hours or days then back to down again. Thinking it has something to do with the firmware or a power saving thing. Works great when it is up though. I am still trying stuff to get it to work stable. To much money invested in them now to start from scratch but they wanted budget equipment in place and not Cisco Aironet.
I currently have WLC 5508 and a few campuses with LAP 1142, each with 2-3 vlan. Now one of our campuses have a building thas is a bit far away and needs network (wired). We can't get fiber or TP-cable there in a good way. So the plan is to get two 1262 or 3500 with AIR-ANT5160NP-R antennas and get a wireless link working between the campus and the building. And then connect one of the AP's to a switch in the other building to provide it with wired network.
The problem is that I can't find information on how to do it. Should both APs be in autonomus mode? I probably only need to have 1 VLAN in the other building but I am not sure yet. Is there a problem with transfering several VLAN over the WLAN-link?
I have 2 - 1410 bridges ( point to point) between two buildings approx 600' apart. They seem to be aligned well ( Signal -52dBm, SNR 41 ) and have been very reliable. However, I cannot seem to run more than 26Mbps thru them.is there any recommended tweaking that can increase my throughput ?
A 500 ft Ethernet run with a mid-point POE extender, what should I use on both ends for best results? Looking for a possible switch at the termination end. I'm using enhanced Cat5E cable.CGMAN
I am having a problem in connecting two Cisco 2960 Switches between two different buildings using Cisco WLC 2504 & 3 Wireless 1552S APs.
- One AP is directly connected to Switch - 1 where WLC is connected and serving as a RAP
- Another one is working as Mesh in the field.
- Third one is a Mesh Access Point wired to another Switch - 2. (Bridging is enabled)
All the APs, WLC & switches are in the same network 10.3.x.x subnet mask : 255.255.240.0?WLC is working with default management interface whereas switches are having VLAN1 configured as default VLAN.All the port for the switches are Trunk ports?Once i am trying to ping the RAP or any MAP from Switch - 1 I am sucessful but once i am pinging Switch - 2, its not replying. Similar is that case from Switch - 2 side.
My manager ordered some Cisco X2-10GB-LR in hopes of having a 10GB uplink between two buildings. We put those modules on the switch and we are getting link flap errors, then the ports goes into err-disabled state.
I was later told there is a couple of "hops" between the buildings, it could be a patch panel or a fiber switch, I do not know at this point. My guess is, we are getting link flap because the "hops" are only running at 1GB. Would this be a typical sympton of the link flap error message? and is there any way to test if there is switches inbetween our routers?
I have installed my new E4200 and it works beautifully. I have several wirelss adapters and a few wired connections through powerline adapters. I also have a second VPN router attached to the 4200.I can see the wireless connected devices with the associated IP addresses. If I plug a laptop directly into the Cisco, I can of course see it.However, I can see none of the devices attatched to the powerline devices? I have a securty cam connected via the powerline and want to know the IP address. I checked with cisco technical support via chat and they said it is impossible. I have used 2 previous routers with the same configuration and can see all devices.
