We install cat6 at university. some of the length exceed 100m. Fluke test show FAIL result. does it really matter for the usage in learning and researching? or does it affecting the quality of IP phone?
View 1 RepliesQuestion re: DIR-655; Hardware ver A4; Firmware version 1.32NA
During bandwidth tests to several sites (principally speedtest.net) I get ping times of 10-11 ms, download speeds of 12+ to 17+ mbps but failure on upload tests using my DIR-655.
When I bypass the 655 and test directly with my cable modem, all (including upload) tests work reliably and consistently.
I have swapped the two ethernet cables involved as well as replacing both with new cables but the results are the same (uploads fail with 655 and work without it)
I have seen several postings over the the last year with this same problem but have never seen any comment from D-Link, or a solution from any reader.
Not that it should have any bearing, but I have TA785GE-128M motherboard and am running Windows 7 (patch current) on COMCAST
is this problem acknowledged by D-Link and is there a solution?
my cable is 150 metres. 50 metres more than the recommended length, how much signal strength would I lose if I'm on a 100Mb LAN? Also, how can I circumvent this problem, supposing I can't change the length of the cable. Meaning to say, if I can't change that 150m cable, what are my other options to consider, to try to improve lessen the attenuation.
View 8 Replies View RelatedI am working on upgrading the network at my office and wiring another space and connecting them together. I have purchased two dlink dgs-1024d 24 port gigabit switch. I have both attached to a gigabit router. I have everything working except that the switch connected to the new wiring is only working at 100m. Every computer says they are only connected at 100m. The switch connected to the pre-existing wiring is all working at 1 gig. The old wiring is only cat5 and all the new wiring is cat5e. Here is the link to the cat5e that I used. [UR:]. why my network is only operating at 100m. I have tried short several short cables connected to the switch and still cannot get 1gig.
View 17 Replies View RelatedHow to configure a 4500X with a GLC-T SFP so that it will work at 100M.The data sheets say it will work at 10/100/1000 but Im not seeing that happen can't set the speed and it doesn't negotiate with anything at 100M it will only work with auto to another switch set to auto and supports 1000M.
View 6 Replies View RelatedIf you hot swap a 100M card with a Gig module in a live 4500 switch, what happens to the running-config? Don't have the module versions to hand.
View 2 Replies View RelatedWe have two Cisco 2960 TT-L switches. I'd like to reduce single points of failure and have dual servers for most tasks. For example, two firewall servers and two web servers. Should one server fail the other will act as a failover.I'd like to extend the redundancy to the switches, and am thinking of connecting one web server to one switch, and one to the other. In the event a switch failed a set of servers would still run, and be able to talk to each other.I'd like to run two VLANs, one for the LAN, and one of the WAN, and connect the two VLANs on each of the switches with the associated VLAN on the other switch.
View 3 Replies View Relatedconnecting a Cisco 3945 Router to an Ethernet WAN Link. The service provider has provided a 100M Ethernet Single Mode Fiber handoff to the customer premises with SC Connector. The CPE configuration proposed for this setup is like this. [code]
Since the SFP has LC Connector, i suppose i need to have an SC-LC Cable for connecting the Ethernet link. Do i need anything else, apart from above?
I got a strange result from netstat (at least it's the first time) tcp 4 local address : .*interwise. What is it ?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI am on BrightHouse cable internet and running a Netgear WGT624 v3 wireless router and WPA-PSK + WPA2-PSK. Computer1 is the only computer on the network at present and is connected via CAT5 cable. No wireless computers here are turned on.If I enable wireless radio, my SpeedTest (www.speedtest.net) is consistently 2- to 3 Megs slower than when wireless is turned off. I have run this comparison over a dozen times spread out over about a 14 hour period.
View 8 Replies View RelatedIs it possible to get the result in th event list in the form of graph, ie. like delay,throughput in the form of graph
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have a Netgear N900 WDR4500 Dual Bank Router. Which range extender should I use for the best result?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a problem with LMS 4.2 user tracking.When I generate a report on all my network all mac address are ok but there is no Hostname/Ip address in the result, except for 2 equipments.the only difference between these 2 equipements and the rest of the network is that they are connected on a not routed vlan. All the other phones, computers are connected on a routed vlan.I have a Nexus 5k as core and 2960 as access. Routing between vlans is done with the NexusMy DNS server is ok and reachable.
View 2 Replies View RelatedLast week I upgraded the firmware in my D LINK DIR-601 from 1.01NA to 1.02NA. This resulted in breaking my VoIP service (causing one-way audio on incoming calls - callers could hear me but I could not hear them). I am using a SIP-based service from Speakeasy (Broad soft) with a Cisco 504G phone. Once I downgraded the router back to 1.01NA, the service started working again.
I don't know if anybody else has reported an SIP-related issues with this firmware.
I recently bought one RV180W and two WAP121 in order to make a wireless extension of a network.I configured RV180W as Router and the three of them have the same SSID and password.Also, I added in RV180W WDS configuration both MAC Addreses of WAP121's and in WAP121's WDS configuration the MAC Address of RV180W.Even I tried in WAP121's with and without encryption using the same WPA Key of the RV180W.
The thing is that is not working at all. They work great separately but right WAP121 can't stablish WDS link with RV180W neither do the left WAP121 with RV180W.I tested WDS configuration of WAP121's and they can see each other between them using standard WDS configuration, so I assume that WDS function of WAP121's works great.Finally I try the same config but setting RV180W in WDS Bridge and WDS Repeater without any different result.Do I have any chance to make the topology I showed up would work? How do I have to configure the RV180W and WAP121's?
[Env on my lab investigation]
supplicant - W7 with cert
authenticator - Catalyst 2960 with IOS 15.0(1)SE2 /newest/
authentication server 2x - W2008/NPS like a RADIUS server
The problem is the end station that are still connected to the supplicant port /use a EAP-TLS/ after the reboot supplicant! All of them will be put into the Guest VLAN instead of static VLAN 34!
[The question]
What is wrong and how to configure/tune and what authenticator or authentication server to prevent after the reboot to observe a authentication timeouts? Of course the supplicant after 20 minutes /next EAPOL start farmet put into VLAN 34.
[Code] ........
I installed WS-C4506-E 3 day ago. I discovered someting different module status Right at the end of the module ( WS-X4648-RJ45-E ) show red led. this is not port led i try to reset module several time. but it's same status. but this is operating now nomally I upload picture.. and this is module status and diagnostic result
Error code ------------------> 3 (DIAG_SKIPPED)
This Case is DOA(Dead of arrival ?
C4506#sh modChassis Type : WS-C4506-E
Power consumed by backplane : 0 Watts
Mod Ports Card Type Model Serial No.---+-----+--------------------------------------+------------------+-----------1 6 Sup 7L-E 10GE (SFP+), 1000BaseX (SFP) WS-X45-SUP7L-E ABCDE1234562 24 1000BaseX (SFP) WS-X4624-SFP-E ABCDE123456 6 48 10/100/1000BaseT (RJ45) WS-X4648-RJ45-E ABCDE123456
M MAC addresses Hw Fw Sw Status--+--------------------------------+---+------------+----------------+---------1 b0fa.ebe5.16c0 to b0fa.ebe5.16c5 1.1 15.0(1r)SG3 03.03.00.SG Ok 2 b0fa.ebc6.5b70 to b0fa.ebc6.5b87 1.2 Ok 6 10f3.1197.1490 to 10f3.1197.14bf 2.1 Ok
[code]....
I'm thinking of making a security system for my house (and possibly selling and setting up for others) based off usb 1080p webcams. I read online the max length of a usb cable is 5m before you need a hub to act like a repeater. Could I simply buy a cat6 (or 7) cable, splice the usb into it, and then unsplice at the computer as a workaround?
View 8 Replies View RelatedIn my coy two desktop are connected to home network and one network printer is installed in our complax so my problem is in one desktop two NIC card are installed in other desktop one NIC Card are installed and no any connectivity through Switch.
so my problem is i connected to a desktop by two NIC card desktop via cat6 cable to other words connected to lan by two NIC card but my desktop can not connect to the Network printer.
i want to know what is exactly the difference between cat6a and cat6+??
View 7 Replies View RelatedOur house has a cat5 line that runs from downstairs, around the outside of the house to an upstairs office. We are consolidating all the outlets that are randomly spread around the walls. The cat5 cable is about 6 inches too short to reach the new box so we figured we might as well run a new cat6 line. (I think we can make the run 20 feet shorter so that's a bonus.)The cat5 line has 2 jacks wired in series at either end. Everything I've read says cat6 is much more touchy and you should only expose the minimal amount of wire from the sheathing and don't untwist the pairs more than necessary. Can I put two jacks on each end of the cat6?
View 4 Replies View RelatedWhenever it comes time to terminate Cat6 lines into an RJ-45 connector, there is an expected way of lining up the colors in each end. This differs somewhat between Cat5 and Cat6 but the principle remains the same: there is a standard order in which to feed the wires into the connector.
My question is, why is this order used? Is there a specific reason why it is done this way? The way I see it, since all 8 wires inside the cable are the same, it shouldn't matter which order you use, as long as it is the same on both ends...
I have done similar with cat5e in the past, but only operating at 100mb/s. The gigabit stuff I have done so far has had the power in a separate stud cavity.My structured wiring project will be installed in one stud cavity in the soon to be new home office. Not exactly using a structured wiring cabinet, but rather using a 7u wall mount relay rack bracket. The cabling will be entering using 2 separate header penetrations. One existing just inside on the right side of the stud cavity carries 110V 12/2 romex to a stud attached box / recepticle. The other side gets the new penetration, a minimum of 12" away. That's the one that the ethernet cable will pass through. The cable runs will run through the wall and through a brush plate, and then to the patch panel.
The Cat6 cable is UTP, and is marked for in wall use. This is the stuff with the spline if that matters.The romex, by code MUST be attached to the stud, and it is, the cat6 on the other hand is allowed to be loose in the wall. I do not plan on having enough slack in the wall for the cat6 to ever get closer than 8" from the romex, and no closer than 10" from the electrical box.Is that separation sufficient to avoid inductive noise on the ethernet cables? Like I said, I have done similar with Cat5e and no problems ever, but only attached to 10/100 networks. I can change stud cavities, but would rather stick with the one so that my ethernet, and power both can enter the rack cleanly.
Wiring my house for Cat6 very soon. I already have most of the architecture decided on (except the decision of whether or not to use a patch panel, but that's another story). However, the office layout is giving me problems.
See, I plan to rent out my house some years down the road, as work will inevitably force me to relocate sooner or later. I know that *I* would want the ethernet ports on the North side of the office, but I can conceivably see somebody else needing them on the South side of the office. Cords running across the room are a pet peeve of mine, so that's out.
Instead of placing the jacks on just one side of the room, I'd prefer to put a jack on BOTH sides of the room, for each line. Like how you used to find two RJ11 phone jacks on the same landline. (note: only one pair of jacks would be used at a time). Is this easily possible with Cat6?
Am running Cat6 cable to my cellar. I plan to run a face plate in the walls of all rooms where there will be an ethernet connection. Originally when I did this in a previous house I wired two rooms together i.e. a face plate in one room and the other end a face plate. I did a cross over cable for this so when connecting anything at the other end it would talk to the device in the other room i.e. room A NAS straight through to face plate, room B PS3 straight through to face plate for example.However as I will be connecting multiple rooms together in to a patch panel then switch / router how will this then work? For all rooms where there is face plate do I crossover all cable to the patch panel or straight through? If straight through to the patch are my patch leads then cross overs to the switch?
View 2 Replies View RelatedThere are 2 locations to choose from. One location requires me to run longer CAT6 cables. 7 of them. The other location requires me to run a longer RG6 cable. (the CAT6 runs would then be about the shortest they could get)So, I guess I need to know which can handle running parallel with power cables better, 25feet of RG6 or CAT6?The parallel with power cable is only for about 6-8 feet, but that's already more than it should be for CAT6.
View 4 Replies View Relatedwhat length does cat6 cable support for networking
View 3 Replies View RelatedI decided to see how my WiFi would stack up against my Cat6 ethernet cable. I subscribe to Comcast's 20 mb/s connection.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI need to run a cat 6 about 350 feet. will that be alright
View 1 Replies View RelatedInstalled brand new CAT6 cable from my office PC (W7) to my HTPC (W7) to stream movies (150 feet) and I cannot get file transfer speeds higher than 1MBps. I get the sames slow speeds whether I use the router or plug the two PCs together.
View 12 Replies View RelatedJust about to run about 30 metres of Ethernet cable underground from one building to another. I know there's quite a few forums like this which suggest to go for cat5 mostly for the price, not sure when these were advised but cat6 doesn't seem to be too much more now...
So just wondering if it will be worth going for cat6 for a future reference if you will, ideally if products ever advance to support it. Just that I don't fancy digging up the cable in a year or so.
Of course I'd rather go for cat5e but wouldn't mind adding a bit to the budget if it's worth it?
Also does anyone know if it's any more difficult to fit the connecters to cat6e? Are they just the same as rj45?
I have about 50m between switches. When using Cat6 I could not get a connecting between switches but when I use Cat 5E I get a connection. The switches are D-Link DGS-1210-10P switches. Why do the Cat6 which is suppose to be superior to Cat 5 not getting a connection.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI want to wire the house for Cat6, the current home we live in I had ATT Uverse installed (but I hated it and now with the bandwidth caps I would pass regardless) and they installed Cat5e. I love having a hardwired internet connection in each room so the new place needs to have this done.
-Professional Networking Tool Kit (I was going to buy the stripper/crimper/punch tool but I thought the testing tool would be nice to have)
-1000ft Bulk Solid Cat6 cable 24AWG
-Cat6 Punch down Keystone Jack
Then just zip ties for cable management, cat6 solid plugs + inserts, two hole wall plates and black relief boots. I already have a Netgear GS108 that I'll be bringing with me, if that ends up not being big enough I will just buy a bigger one in the future. I'm planning on running two cables to each room of the house for a total of 12 cables (not all of them will be hooked up, I plan to make sure to label each one at the central location where I'll be keeping the cable modem and switch. Each bedroom will only currently use one port with the spare bedroom not using any but when I'm running cables I'm going to run them all for future proofing our new home. I was thinking of putting the wireless router I have in the living room as if any place will need more than two ports it will be the living room (Receivers, TVs, Bluray players, DirecTV boxes will all end up using RJ45 as I upgrade them).