I'm using a stock FIOS router Actiontec MI424WR, and I'm trying to access the router settings at 192.168.1.1. I type in my username fine, but when I type the password, each keystroke gives me more than one digit. Even holding Ctrl adds one, and letting go removes three characters. I've never seen this happen before, and I've tried it on two computers and three different browsers. I see that people recommend hard-resetting the router, but I was wondering why this has happened
I have a MI424WR for my Verizon Fios connection. The router is located downstairs, and I don't get Wifi in my bedroom upstairs. Is it possible to connect another WIFI router by ethernet to the MI424WR? Is there anyway where I can do it without the two router's wifi signals fighting each other? Is there a specific kind of router I should be looking for?
Just upgraded to Verizon FIOS and had an Actiontec MI424WR Rev F router (firmware v.20.10.7) supplied. Went to white-list my ereader's MAC in router and intitial page asked me to change the default login and password which I planned to do anyway. I know what I changed them to. Made changes, logged out, then decided I really wasn't comfortable with WEP and went back to change it to WPA. All I got was "Login failed, please try again." Finally hit the reset button and started over at the "please change login and password" screen. I can get in then.
I've been through this six times now and cannot get past the initial login without a hard reset. Tried keeping "admin" as the login because I have met peripherials that are touchy about that. Not a major issue now that I have the router set up to my satisfaction, but it frustrates me to not have password access to any part of my system. (Yes, I am that anal.)
I am moving into an apartment thereafter. I have an HTPC in use, a personal computer for gaming/processing, and my fiancee has an Apple Macbook Pro that she uses quite often. I have an HDHomeRun Dual (2 tuners) for streaming OTA/QSM cable over the network (the HDHomeRun plugs into the network, not a computer). I also have a TV and Blu-Ray player that have ethernet ports.
Currently I use Verizon Fios and their Actiontec MI424WR router, which to my knowledge has gigabet ethernet. When I move I will probably be saddled with Comcast Xfinity Internet, which will supply a cable modem if I want, but no router. The only router I currently own is a Zyxel NBG-419N, which has only 100/10 ethernet ports. My current computers all have gigabit ethernet. For the home theatre components and my HTPC, I plan to pick up a network switch with gigabit ethernet. So my questions are:
1. If I use the Zyxel and the Comcast cable modem, would I be throttling my network speed at the router? I would hate to choke my speed just because one component does not have gigabit ethernet.
2. If I were to upgrade to, say, an Asus RT-N56U, would that make a huge difference on network browsing and throughput speeds?
3. Finally, what kind of cable is needed to maximize discernible speed increase? Cat5, Cat5e, or Cat6?
I bought the Linksys E1200 for it's wireless N and the guest account. set up my new Linksys E1200 router to use for wireless N access rather that my Verizon Fios provided Actiontec (model M4124-WR Rev.C) which is only wireless G, and so that I can use the guest account. I have an ethernet cable running from one of the 4 ethernet ports on the E1200 to one of the 4 LAN ports on the Actiontec. I have the wireless turned off on the Actiontec, and have the E1200 set as 192.168.1.200.My wireless N signal seems to be working fine from the E1200, and I was able to turn on the guest account on the E1200 and "connect" to it on my iPhone 4, but then when I open Safari I can not connect to the internet.
Just had Verizon FIOS service installed. It comes with an actiontec modem. I would like to remove the actiontec modem and connect directly to my Linksys RT31P2 which is cascaded to my Linksys WRT54G. I have tried just about every router setup config; all with no success. How to be able to connect the FIOS directly to a linksys router.
I got Fios installed this week. Router is the Actiontec MI424, it sits int he living room. I ran a speed test of the wifi on my laptop in the living room, and the internet speeds were great. Here's my problem. I'm in a 2 br condo, not a huge place maybe like 1200 Sq feet, same floor. Wifi is awesome in the living room, but in the bedroom it hangs. I still have a signal, varying for low to good, but it takes forever to open a web page, to the point where you can't use the internet. Bedroom is just down the hall.I called Verizon. They told me they can only guarantee the wifi signal 10 feet from the router, after that no promises. My frustration is that with my previous provider, which was giving me a slower internet connection, my wifi in the bedroom was fine and the router was in the exact same spot. Of course I used my own router? I know there are instructions on connecting my old router to the fios one and using my old router for wifi.
I connected EA6500 internet port to actiontec router provided by Verizon fios. I don't have any other way to connect as FIOS connection is coax to actiontec modem. I must take a drop from actiontec to internet port on EA6500.
With that said, I can't get EA6500 to work, it keeps saying no internet. The only way I can get it to work is when I set it to bridge mode. This makes my EA6500 a dumb switch/access point. I didn't spend $200 for a switch. I need to use advanced features offered by this router but I can't until this problem is fixed. I made sure I am running latest version of firmware (18.104.22.168856).
I have reset my fios router as well as ea6500 to factory defaults multiple times.
I have my internet through CenturyLink which is a DSL connection running on an Actiontec Q1000 on a Windows 7 set up. I'm trying to run a subsonic server on my computer to stream my music collection. It was all working beautifully until I had to switch to this modem from my previous. Now, when I go to canyouseeme.org, it can't see that 4040 and 8080 are open. They need to be for subsonic to work? I've tried to set it up as portforwarding
I have a CANYON Wireless N Router CNP-WF514N1A. It was working properly, but I changed its deafult password to my own . (192.168.0.1 -> wireless security -> new pass -> okay -> reboot computer ). After I restarted the computer, the router stopped working. The lights on it are fine, and if I plug the net cable into the computer I have internet too. The problem is, if I plug the cable into the router, I don't have internet. And I can't open 192.168.0.1 either.
I did not know the username and password for my DI-524 so I wanted to do a reset...used a paper clip and held the reset button for ten seconds, unplugged it, powered it up, and as per online instructions tried to type in 192.168.0.1 to access the username and password field so that I could enter "admin" and blank password. Here's where my lack of knowledge comes in. I am working off a MacBook with no Ethernet connection, just wifi. Is what I am trying to do even possible? Or does the computer I configure the router with have to be hardwired to the Internet while I do it?
I use a broadband net connection. DSL Ehernet connection. I need to type a pssword and username to get connected. Anyways, that's not the problem. The problem is after powering on the modemt, the link in my modem starts to blink every 2min. which causes the broken connection. Sometimes I cant even connect to the net because the link doesn't stop to blink.. I'm unable to do anything as the connection keeps going off. There might be a question of down servers, But the others who is using the same plan as mine, not having such trouble.
I've assigned an ip address to my htpc using dhcp reservation. On my old router I could use the client name, for instance: ssh name@clientName Instead of: ssh name@ipAddress Currently I cannot do this with the stock cisco firmware (unless I'm mistaken). Is there something I have to do to get it working? Or do I have to resort to tomatoUSB/WRT.
I am new to Cisco Nexus 7000 Series NX-OS System of appliances. I am looking for type of log events that are getting generated by CISCO Nexus 7000 switches. Some documents which give me this references & some documents which have a log line explained.
I am having an issue with connecting to a Cisco 7201 via the AUX port through a modem. The modem is plugged into the AUX port and I am dialing into the modem, everything seems to be working fine as I get a login prompt and my banner etc but I can't type anytihng. If I type then nothings happens... If I just type a bunch of random characters on the keyboard then when the authentication prompt times out and it goes back to the username, it will show a few of those characters.. I have tried many things, changing speeds etc, I have even tried changing modems and it is doing the exact same thing.Here is my config:
line aux 0 exec-timeout 2 0 modem Dialin transport input all stopbits 1 speed 115200 flowcontrol hardware
I have searched on here and found people having similar problems but no solutions. I have tried this one a Cisco 2821 with the same config and it works with no problem, the only difference is the phone line is different.
I am using Windows 7 on my laptop and trying to connect to my dad's Actiontec M1424WR router wirelessly. It picks up the signal fine, but whenever I try to connect, it takes a while and then just says it can't connect. It will continue to try and connect, only ever getting as far as limited access then quickly losing the connection, all with a Good signal. My dad and brothers all use Windows 7 laptops as well and they are and have been connected just fine. We tried a wired connection and that works perfectly too, so the only problem is getting it to work wirelessly now.
I recently updated my firmware to dd-wrt... now I would like to switch back to stock firmware. I don't like the fact that any change I make basically resets the router. Plus DD-WRT GUI is VERY slow for me?I've followed every tutorial on how to do this, but the router will not accept the stock firmware. I've gotten the image to upload (according to the browser), but at 100% the flashing orange light & globe light just continue to blink & do nothing. I never see the other lights "flash" confirming the upgrade has took. I've set my IP manually through "Network Connections>Properties>TCP/IPv4" before trying. I get to the emergency firmware page...set it upload Version A1. Sometimes it uploads...but like I said, it never takes.
I need the capability to log into the 3g/4g modem and change the Wan IP address. Doe anyone know of a 3g/4g modem that allows you to do that. My other option would be to disable the wireless radio on the 3g/4g router and connect my Linksys Wireless router that I know I can log in and change the WAN Ip. It looks like to me that this model below would allow me to do that?MBR1516 Will turning off wireless radio on the 3g/4g router completely turn off all routing or could there be a conflict with my Linksys wireless router?
See attached diagram, which shows me using the tp-link router to protect my internal network from the guest network for internal security.Should I put the tp-link router into a DMZ on the first main Orcon router to be able to make remote access form the web into my network? I have an IP camera etc that I need to access from the WWW. If I do this does this have any security implications; both for my network or the guestsMy reasoning is not; as the TP-Link still acts as my firewall and the specific address of the TP-Link doesn't affect the guest, but I thought I'd check with the Pros!?
I have a Netgear WNDR3700 v2 that I loaded with dd-wrt (v24-sp2 std). The only real problem that I am having is with the wireless. I can't get anything to connect at 300mbps. Even if I set it to n only it still only connects at 54mbps. Right now I am running it with encrytion off to rule out that causing any problems. and yes it would connect at 300mbps with the stock netgear firmware.
Instead of stocking every known AP and every external connector, I would like to query which APs to stock for general site surveys....
I have 2 customers that will require surveys in the near future...one plans on using the 2602e AP, and the other a 3602e AP. I have read somewhere that the 1140 makes an excellent proxy for the 2602 and several other Cisco APs (as the RF characteristics are similar) so that I only have to stock that one AP to use for those site surveys- but I haven't seen any recommendations about the 3600 series AP yet...
What AP to stock for doing Cisco site surveys? Maybe one or two models only?
I was in an online game with my wife when I lost my internet connection. We are on the same Lynksys wireless-B router. My pc is running win7, hers has win8. I could not reconnect but could connect if I went directly into the modem. I have Comcast cable.
Microsoft Windows [Version 6.1.7600] Copyright (c) 2009 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved. C:Windowssystem32>ipconfig/all Windows IP Configuratin
The setup looks like this:I have a core swith (HP Procurve) which is connected to Cisco router ( which is ISP router).I have to create vlans and do intervlan between them and reach the ISP router.I created two vlans on HP Core Switch ( apart from default vlan 1) , vlan 99 ip add 10.110.234.1 subnet 255.255.255.128 and vlan 999 ip add 10.110.234.129 subnet 255.255.255.128,vlan 1 ip add 10.110.232.42 subnet 255.255.254.0.tagged the ports of vlan 99 and vlan 999 in vlan 1. I am able to do intervlan routing, but i cannot reach router which is 10.110.232.1 subnet 255.255.252.0.I tried these scenrio on packet tracer, it is working fine.
I am just confused over the fact that a router configured with 10.1.1.1 address (assuming it's got 255.255.255.0 mask) can communicate to a PC connected to one of it's LAN ports and manually setup to have 10.1.1.2/8 address. I was sure that since these are two different subnets they won't see each other. But they do and searched wiki and just googled to see why, but with no success. A friend of my friend says something about 'same range' but it makes little sense to me.
I just need a good article about it or a crystall clear explanation, because I feel my understanding of IP is not as good as I used to believe.
I have att dsl and they supplied me with a modem, a motorola model type 2210, and my belkin surf N300 router is giving me issues connecting to the internet. Im pretty sure my wireless network adapter is a netgear wg311v3.The issue im having is that sometimes i can connect to the internet just fine, and sometimes i cant connect to the internet. I know it is a router issue because when i plug the modem into my comp, i can access the internet 100% fine.I also think it is not a wireless network adapter issue because i ran an ethernet cable from the router to my comp and had the same issues. There are 2 other computers on the network, one of them is a year or two newer than my dell desktop, and has no issues whatsoever connecting to the internet via the router. The other computer on the network is a Wii, and has connection issues when playing online (probly a different issue), but can access the internet no problem.
I am doing my college project(Client Server Chat Application in C#). I need to transfer all the data of my application through a VPN tunnel. I want to create a IPSEC VPN tunnel through which I can route the Data. I am low On budget I am not inclined towards buying any Hardware. So is it necessary to purchase a Router or a Network Interface Card To create A IpSec VPN.
I set up the password through WPA-PSK, the problems come up. My laptop, HP G62-465DX and my Ipod Touch can connect by inputting the passcode but the other laptop in my family, HP G72-b60us, cannot connect to the router once the passcode is set up because the laptop claims that it is incompatible with the router when it was before. Also, my wireless printer HP Officejet 4500 wireless G510 n-z does not work when the passcode is set-up.