Equipment Necessary For A 400 Foot Range Outdoor G Network?
Dec 8, 2011
I want to set up a wireless video security system around my farm. I have been having a lot of predator problems this year and I am tired of getting up in the middle of the night and running outside in my underwear to check on my livestock (especially now that it is winter) because my wife thought she heard something attacking the animals. I have been looking around at wireless wifi security cameras to use with my home wifi network and all of them ( like the Foscam FI8918W) use IEEE 802.11g standards. I have done a lot of research on this and there is just no consistent data about to do this. I know that are a lot of smart people here because I have posted here before and got some great answers. So, I am just going to tell you what I would like to achieve and you can tell me how (if possible) I can do it. I am willing to buy all new equipment if necessary. I need a omni-directional wifi G network with a minimum range of 400 feet. I have several buildings to cover so it has to be omni-directional. My house is located 350 feet from the furthest building, so I figure a 400 foot range should give me good consistent results. I already have an old Linksys WRT54GS router with Firmware Version: v1.52.8. It is located in my bedroom against an outside wall and even now I get some signal from it out at my farthest building (350 feet) and even browse the web with my laptop. But the signal is spotty and seems to come and go for no reason. What is really funny is that I have less signal in the second bathroom on the other side of the house, but I guess that is because of all the walls in between.
Now I have read that you can increase a routers broadcast strength by modifying the router settings. But you need special firmware like, Tomato, to do that and I have already tried to install , Tomato, to my router with no success. So if modifying the router software is necessary, I will need another router I guess.
1. A good strong router capable of IEEE 802.11g.
2. A good strong outdoor antenna that will connect to the router.
My problem is that I can find good routers and good antennas, but nothing that say they will work with each other. And another thing is that it appears to me from what I have read so far, that the stronger the antenna is, the more narrow the vertical broadcast field is. So, if I understand this right, with a strong antenna, the antenna and the receiving device have to be about the same height horizontally speaking. So if I put the antenna on the top of my house, it will basically shoot right over all my cameras. But if I put the antenna lower along an outside wall, then the cameras on the opposite side of the house won't receive signal. But again, this is just my understanding of what I read so far. You can see now why I am so confused about this. The more I read, the more I get confused. It seem like this should be simple, like, "Buy this router, Buy that antenna". Surly, I am not the first person who wants to extend their home network to a reasonable outdoor range. It's not like I want it to reach miles (that would be nice except for all the hackers trying hack my network).
I have a WRT160n that I am trying to forward some ports on for some DVR equipment. When I use the single port forwarding and enter each port separately it works fine. But I have 2 DVR's and they use a bunch of ports each so I want to use the port range forwarding because there are not enough spots in the single port forwarding section. The ports I am trying to forward are 8000-8004 for one IP address and 8005-8009 for a second IP address. I have entered it into the port range forwarding section but I can not connect from outside my network. As I said if I enter them in the single port section seperately as 8000,8001,8002,8003,8004 then I can connect fine outside my network.
I just got a server cabinet from a friend and i am going to put all my networking stuff in there i want to put my router inside it too but im not sure if it will affect the signal the cabinet is made out of metal but not thick.
Which would be better, 100 foot cable (about the distance the N would be going plus some walls) or a 100 foot cable into my attic and back down to my router?
I have a 10 foot ethernet Cable, and a 100 foot ethernet cable. Both cables work great from the router to my Thinkpad PC, and both work through the same port on the router. on my xbox the 10 foot cable works immediately when I hook it up to my xbox. The 75 foot cable will just not work to the Xbox. Again, it works fine to 2 of my laptops in the house. Is there a problem with Xbox and Long ethernet cables?
My parents for the last few years have discussed a desire to be able to get internet access out at their pond. The pond is located about 200 feet or so from the house. Roughly between the house and pond is our barn. I would like to set up an outdoor network that would give them access to the internet at these ranges.
Currently, we have a linksys WRT54GL in the house. My plan was to add an additional WRT54GL in our garage as well as a wireless expander in our barn (I was considering the EnGenius ERB9250). Would the WRT54GL have enough range to reach the barn, and would a repeater be capable of reproducing the signal?
If not, do you have any other reccomendations as to how I might achieve this (without reaching too deep into my pockets)?
On a small office setup we have many computers connected to one another using wireless LAN. One of the PCs on the WLAN also has a LAN connection with a few other equipment connected to it. The WLAN IP Addresses are 192. 168. 1.XXX and the LAN addresses are 192.168.0.XXX. How can I get to communicate the WLAN computers with the equipment on LAN.
what it looks like after it was cleaned up and my switches added in:That is a 3750, 48 port switch that it came with. I added in my 3750's and a 3550. The PC is for GNS3 and will have additional ports added for router interfaces soon.
I have a terminal server in the mail to round it out.
I am currently deploying Cisco ASR9K BNG solution and it needs to be integrated with a Cisco ACS 3.3 (yes that old .. going to migrate to new product in the future) equipment. There are several specific attributes need that are not on the base config of the ACS 3.3 but it seems that i can configure them manually:In addition to supporting a set of predefined RADIUS vendors and vendor-specific attributes (VSAs), Cisco Secure ACS supports RADIUS vendors and VSAs that you define. Vendors you add must be IETF-compliant; therefore, all VSAs that you add must be sub-attributes of IETF RADIUS attribute number 26..This is from the ACS 3.3 configuration manual.I have never done this user defined VSAs.
I would like to connect my 1841 to the equipment that has RS-422 interface in order to transmit data. I have to buy one WIC-1T to support it. However, I am not sure that this module will be able to support RS-422 or not (As I can see there is DB25 which is the interface of RS-422, but I realize that RS-232 also has 25 pins.)
I have to do a policy route on my cat6500. basically, I want to redirect all traffic from 10.1.1.100 to internet address xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx to another machine 10.1.1.101. however, the 10.1.1.100 and 10.1.1.101 are in save subnet. not directed to cat6500, but both connecte to same switch which is linked to cat6500. However the 10.1.1.101 is not a cisco router. but some sort of equipment which change traffic and pass them to another subnet.
that means can I do below:
access-list 101 permit ip host 10.1.1.100 host xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx route-map reroute permit 10 march ip address 101
We're upgrading our network (formerly 1 router, 1 outdoor antenna, and 1 router converted to a repeater) to provide wireless coverage for our members at a small beach club. To save money, our usual electrician will be running all the cabling for added antennas and repeaters; the networking guy will then do the terminations and hook up the equipment he's determined will work best for us. I'm supposed to order 1000' of cat 6 cable for the electrician to use, but I didn't realize there were so many options - I need to order the cable asap (i.e. today!), and neither the electrician or network guy are available over the weekend. The cable will be run from our office to our front gate, and to several outbuildings; buried underground for most of the first case, and run along the outside of and through several shed-like wooden structures in the other cases. The longest run will be about 250'. Because of our location the unburied cable would be exposed to salt air, sun, wind and rain, so I'm assuming it'll be run through plastic conduit or something where it needs to be outside.Do I want regular cat 6 or cat 6a? Double PVC shielded, gel-filled flooded, shielded mylar foil, or something I haven't yet run across?
I have an telemetry equipment which have one ethernet RJ45 port, so I have an internet connection and I can connect to this device remotely using a browser on my PC for security reason I want to feed this device with a second internet connection that is coming from a cellular line , can I just put the two different Internet cables into a switch and from that switch connect my device?
i am trying to monitor some UPS equipment,for that i am using a cisco 2960 switch and when the UPS is down it sends a L1 loop.when the switch detects the loop the int in which the UPS is conected to will get a link and go up.now my problem is this, as you probeblly know the switch has a protocol which protects it from getting loops and cuasing all kinds of problems.i need to remove this protocol and allow the switch to get L1 loops?
P.si have tryed to use UDLD, KEEPALIVE, BPDU guard, down-when-looped and errdisable commands with no success?
I have a 1.25 mbps download and .2 upload speed. I have a netgear n600 router and have wireless and cannot change to wired. I have around a 120 ping all most always. My current speed is the best in my area too. Is there any kind of equipment that will give me a lower ping for online gaming? Is there any router settings for this?
I have a Cisco 1751 that I wanted to use to create another network behind my Actiontec m1424wr Verizon router. My plan was to connect a linksys wrt54gs to the Cisco router for device connectivity. And I wanted everyone else in the house to still be able to use the Verizon router as expected. I know this is probably not the best way to create an internal network. But I am studying for the CCNA & CEH and just wanted to use the Outdated Cisco IOS on the 1751.
A client I have just taken on wishes to provide internet data and VoIP for multiple tenants in their new office they move to in a few weeks.
they currently have a Cisco 2811 router with a 24 port Catalyst 2960 PoE managed switch serving just their staff and one tenant company who is plugged into a single port on the switch. I dont know what the tenant has the other side of that at this time.
when they move they currently will provide single port access points on the switch for each tenant, so the tenant can deal with their own network LAN. The client will provide phones to all the tenants using VoIP phones on a single subnet and hosted on an external PBX the phones all plug into the Catalyst and use the PoE. the WAN is a 20mbps fibre connection.
The client has 16 staff, the tenants are 3 companies with 3,6 and 9 staff. They may all increase or decrease in size to a total size of about 30 or 40 people.
I have a few questions
1. should I look at Vlan setup for this instead of the current basic routing setup or is that overkill since they only use one port access point per tenant as gateway.
2. can the cisco 2811 handle this or is it a bit old.
3. what router replacement would be recommended for this task given the above info especially if I went with Vlan solution.
4. any thoughts on the current switch's capability for this task.
5. managing bandwidth solutions? is there any router designed with this in mind. the ASA maybe or something like it with nice visual webgui management capabilities for monitoring and controlling bandwidth use of tenants? Mark
i'm triyng to establish a vpn ipsec tunnel between my cisco2801 and a cyberoam equipment, at the end point.Debugging isakmp, i have this output, where xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx is the remote peer address, and yyy.yyy.yyy.yyy is mine.What can i try?
Apr 1 14:48:12.542: ISAKMP:(0): SA request profile is (NULL)Apr 1 14:48:12.542: ISAKMP: Created a peer struct for xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx, peer port 500Apr 1 14:48:12.542: ISAKMP: New peer created peer = 0x661C2D4C peer_handle = 0x80000003Apr 1 14:48:12.542: ISAKMP: Locking peer struct 0x661C2D4C, refcount 1 for isakmp_initiatorApr 1 14:48:12.542: ISAKMP: local port 500, remote port 500Apr 1 14:48:12.542: ISAKMP: set new node 0 to QM_IDLE Apr 1 14:48:12.542: insert sa successfully sa = 66DF4F5CApr 1 14:48:12.542: ISAKMP:(0):Can not start Aggressive mode, trying Main mode.Apr 1 14:48:12.542: ISAKMP:(0):found peer pre-shared key matching xxx.xxx.xxx.xxxApr 1 14:48:12.542: ISAKMP:(0): constructed NAT-T vendor-07 IDApr
I have two ethernet cards (from same equipment) that arent acquiring IP Address after instalation of WLC 2504.I dont want (yet) to disable DHCP proxy on WLC.
*DHCP Socket Task: Apr 15 18:49:04.219: 00:0a:95:XX DHCP received op BOOTREQUEST (1) (len 556,vlan 0, port 1, encap 0xec00) *DHCP Socket Task: Apr 15 18:49:04.219: 00:0a:95:XX DHCP dropping packet (no mscb) found - (giaddr 0.0.0.0, pktInfo->srcPort 68, op: 'BOOTREQUEST') *DHCP Socket Task: Apr 15 18:49:07.218: 00:0a:95:XX DHCP received op BOOTREQUEST (1) (len 556,vlan 0, port 1, encap 0xec00) *DHCP Socket Task: Apr 15 18:49:07.218: 00:0a:95:XX DHCP dropping packet (no mscb) found - (giaddr 0.0.0.0, pktInfo->srcPort 68, op: 'BOOTREQUEST')
I just installed a 10 port Cisco SG300-10MP in my office, 9 of the ports are already in use. Connected to it are
PC Laptop Notebook WIFI AP B&W laser printer Color inkjet printer IP camera Squeezebox SB3
Cat5e connection to basement HP 1810G-24 switch All of these devices are connected via a single Cat5e cable that was installed when the house was built. I had to re-terminate both ends of it when I moved in because the existing terminations were done very poorly. I have no idea how or where the cable is routed, nor what the quality of this Cat5e cable is. It did pass a test using my cable tester.
This single Cat5e is connected to my main HP switch in the basement equipment rack. Both of these switches have mini-GBIC ports that can utilize SFP transceivers and fiber. I priced out 2 MGBSX1 compatible modules along with a 30M multimode fiber patch 'cable' online at under $150. Although it would require at least a couple hours of work (including digging around in the attic and crawl space and drilling some holes), but running the fiber to the basement is very doable.
My question to my far more experienced forum members is if the performance gains would be worth the effort?My server is in the basement, and despite having an Intel GB NIC in my PC I am seeing read speeds of ~23MBs and writes of ~49MBs to/from my it. My server has teamed GB NICs (802.3ad LACP Layer 2) connected to trunked (LACP) ports on my HP switch.
I have some questions in regards to network equipment I want re-utilize for my distribution layer in one of my buildings.The choices at the moment are:
OPTION 1.) 2x WS-3550-12G's (HSRP)
OPTION 2.) 1x WS-6509 with cards:
What option would be better from a performance aspect? We want to have network, voice, and wireless data go through this distribution layer switch(es).This is exisiting equipment I already have and can not buy anything else at the moment.
We currently have some LAP1242AG AP's meshed together inside our building.The owner (without consulting IT) was able to aquire some LAP1510AG's that he want's to deploy for outdoor use.Can they be meshed into our current network without having to cable one of the 1510's to the network?
I have a requirement to connect two 3750 switch with 10G speed between two sites with 150km distance. We will lay-out our own fiber (48 core) between two sites. I just want to consult the following:
1. Could i use two core switch 6500 with single mode fiber as a transport equipment?
2. Or i need to use SDH equipment because of the distance concern? If so do i need a repeater?Could i use Cisco Metro Core ONS, which one?
I currently have a Belkin router and a Belkin range extender. I have the router downstairs and the extender upstairs. Right now the router operates as <SSID> and the extender is <SSID> Alt. I would like to use them both as <SSID>, and have them work together. For example, I use the Wifi downstairs on my laptop, I walk upstairs, and I don't have to change over to the other network. It would switch automatically to the stronger signal.
I'm trying to extend the range of my wireless network from my house to my workshop, which is about 600 feet away. There are no trees or other objects in between the two buildings. how I could boost my wireless signal to reach that far?
My friends and me have been playing games on our laptops over adhoc networks for years now. However, we always have to be in the same room for it to have a good network coverage.
But as we all live in the same boarding house, the rooms can get crowded very easily. We tried playing in rooms next door to each other, but even then the connection was extremely bad.
I'm clueless in any wireless hardware such as routers, but I'm wondering if there is a device which I can plug my laptop to, and then it acts as the 'hub' of the adhoc network, being able to transmit & receive the signals much further out than any of our own laptops can.