Rj45 Patch Panel Wiring Standards?
Mar 3, 2012info on RJ45 patch panel wiring standards. Is there an Australian standard that specifies exposed cable pairs be not more than 13mm at termination point (RJ45) wiring cat cable?
View 1 Repliesinfo on RJ45 patch panel wiring standards. Is there an Australian standard that specifies exposed cable pairs be not more than 13mm at termination point (RJ45) wiring cat cable?
View 1 Repliesmy cat5 wiring seems to b wrong,so i need the wire combination of a cat5e cable on a patch panel
View 1 Replies View RelatedI currently have the following set up in my basement: Modem to 8 port router which has cables going into a patch panel which in turn provides internet access at 8 wall outlets throughout the house. My data/video streaming needs are expanding and I have had additional wiring pulled to the new locations. I would like to know if I can bypass the patch panel and go from the Modem to a 24 port switch to individual wall plates throughout the house.
View 1 Replies View RelatedAm running Cat6 cable to my cellar. I plan to run a face plate in the walls of all rooms where there will be an ethernet connection. Originally when I did this in a previous house I wired two rooms together i.e. a face plate in one room and the other end a face plate. I did a cross over cable for this so when connecting anything at the other end it would talk to the device in the other room i.e. room A NAS straight through to face plate, room B PS3 straight through to face plate for example.However as I will be connecting multiple rooms together in to a patch panel then switch / router how will this then work? For all rooms where there is face plate do I crossover all cable to the patch panel or straight through? If straight through to the patch are my patch leads then cross overs to the switch?
View 2 Replies View RelatedOn my closet's patch panel, there's one ethernet jack that is labeled "IDF5", I was just wondering what it is used for.
View 3 Replies View RelatedRecently bought a NAS (Synology DS212j), upgraded to a gigabit router (Netgear WNDR3700), and now want to utilize the pre-wired ethernet ports in our condo. How to do this last part.
Do i just plug one of the LAN ports from the router into the wall using a Cat5e cable? Then the signal will be routed to all ethernet ports through the patch panel?
I located a patch panel in the closet, but not sure if its wired correctly or which connection goes where. I took some pics that you can see here: URL
you can see in one of the pictures that some of the cables are only connected at one side.
I am renovation my own house, and I have started to hard wire for the network/s, but I am also trying to incorporate so much more than any previous “wireless” setup I have had, well I am a bit confused to say the least.I would like to set up a home network and media server system which includes:Internet browsing (multiple rooms and wireless) File sharing, printer sharing, scanner etc Music/Video sharing/streaming, TV etc.I have started wiring (we are renovating) with Cat5e, and have just replaced the old POTS (telephone) wiring with Cat5e and taken the individual telephone wires (including the incoming telephone cable) back to one central connection unit in a network patch panel. This has improved the speed of my DSL download connection speed from 1.2mbs to 6.2mbs. unreal!, so that did get me a bit fired up!I am currently wiring data points (Cat5es from each room) back to the same panel, but to be honest I am not really sure where to go from there! Also, I have wired Sat cables back to this point ready to be connected to sat TV (dish) in case if we get it. This patch panel is in a small passageway that goes through to the garage from the house. It is conveniently located next to the mains board which I have just replaced. My original idea was to put any extra needed equipment in the same location, but looking at it, I think that I may have to think again, for there is little room. I have found a small alcove in the upstairs games room which has a shelf, and which could take any hardware, also it will be dust free (unlike the place leading to the garage). I can run as many cables as needed from this location to the patch panel, but obviously I would like to know how many, as I am not familiar with networking on this scale, my only other experience being wireless setups. For example, would the switch need to be located where the patch panel is, or else can it be on the shelf with the other stuff? (away from the panel), and the existing D-link 4 port router?? is this no longer required?Im presuming i will need an old PC or some sort of media storage device here too... no ideas with this either. Have tried asking three different computer stores, got three different answers...?!
Have I dropped a clanger wiring to the passageway, when infact any server/switch or whatever wont be in the same location?Also, I am planning on getting a MAC book, and would like to use this on the system sometimes (might not be relevant), just thought to mention. And, I was thinking of trying Linux, as I am fed up with all the windows problems. But not sure if that is a good idea either.We have TVs in the (when its finished) media room, also three other areas, which I would like to get connected so that they will be able to get either TV or watch a film from storage wow this is getting complicated and if it matters I do have a PS3, which we only really bought to use as a TV storage system/recorder.
I have DSL, a firewall, patch panel and hubs.The network was already in place by three previous techs. I am not sure how the current setup is done there is no configuration map.The users in office 1 are all connected to a patch panel that then connects to hubs The second office users connect to a hub that then connects to the patch panel then connects to another hub.The internet is connected to a router that will be replaced with a firewall. Should it be setup like thisdsl modem > firewall > patch panel > hubs > Nodes
View 3 Replies View RelatedHow do i terminate a split cat5 for data and voice at the patch panel end?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI am holding a DPC 3925 Cable Modem to connect to the internet. The wireless is great and all but i need something more.I need to connect another 8 cat6a cables to it to complete my home network. should i use a switch or patch panel or something?And not all 8 cable will be on wired. One or two connections are needed to extend the range of the wifi. What device can i use?I've got a ps3, NAS and media box that probably need the network connections to the main DPC 3925 Cable Modem.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a 6500 connected to 3750 using fiber connection using patch panel.on the gig port of the 6500 give of error in Input errors, CRC and FRAME.There is no error from the 3750 gigport.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI currently have the following set up in my basement: Modem to 8 port router which has cables going into a patch panel which in turn provides internet access at 8 wall outlets throughout the house. My data/video streaming needs are expanding and I have had additional wiring pulled to the new locations. I would like to know if I can bypass the patch panel and go from the Modem to a 24 port switch to individual wall plates throughout the house.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a customer asking if Cisco supporst CISPR11 - Class B. All Cisco switches appear to support CISPR11 - Class A only. What is the difference? Is Class B supported?
View 0 Replies View RelatedI'm considering wiring my house for Ethernet (I've chosen Cat 6 cable.). I've read some online guides about this. However, I can't seem to find any that would work with my house, which is a Pueblo-style flat roof with parapets. However, I want to tear out as little drywall as I can. There's already wiring for coax and phone.
View 7 Replies View RelatedI am purchasing an older home and I am going to have to rewire the networking to the house. I have decided that I am going to push forward with Fiber Optics as my main networking vehicle. As a side I am going to run COAX and Cat-6 along the same cabling routing. The Ethernet and Coax are fairly straight forward, as long as I don't go over 100meter's Cat-6 will do just fine, and can be terminated to a traditional router. The Coax will be to a splitter for television purposes only. Now the difficult and hard to find information on: My plan for the fiber is to run a zipcord Single Mode fiber line to each room of the home. I am using Single Mode Fiber because it has the highest bandwidth for future applications. These runs will be homerun back to a distribution box next to the other comms where it will plugged into a Fiber Optic Switch to network the rooms together. I am going to run 3 lines to my basement (for a home server, office, and HTPC for the basement theatre.), One line to each of the following rooms: Kitchen, Living Room, and Bedrooms. I have bought off the internet the following: 1000ft of SM Zipcord fiber ($199), 4 Fiber Optic Nic's with PCI-Express 1 connections (for $20 a piece, they only run at about 2GB/s, but I can upgrade these in the future as price comes done), 1 16-port 10GB Fiber Optic Switch with trancievers ($140), Terminals and tools: $300.
I have is about connecting my Home Fiber to the internet. I am going to start running Verizon Fios, and that is not a true fiber optic solution because they run a Fiber to their Media Converter and then Coax from there into the house, but I have talked to them and they said they can run the fiber cable into the home. I am wanting to connect that cable straight to my Fiber Optic Switch which would then be connected directly to my computers, as well as a fiber optic wireless router, and then from my switch to their ONT for tv and phone. My question is will this work? What kind of problems will I run into, and what other hardware do I need to get this up and running. I basically do not want to run copper to any of my devices..I either want them to network wirelessly or with a fiber line. (even the wireless will be running fiber since will connect directly to the fiber line via the fiber switch.)So it is expensive, but I believe it is worth it. 200ft of Cat-7 copper costs $199 vs 1000ft Fiber at the same price..and the fact that Cat-7 does have a life-limit on it's bandwidth where as fiber is the future.
I just need to add new connectors and I'm good to go. The PCs have cabinets with Ethernet sockets in them and these will also need re-wiring with a RJ45 jack then a faceplate mounting as they are totally bare at the minute.Also, I think I need to learn this as a whole, it will become a regular thing, do I need the following tools to do the basics of cabling ?RJ45 Network Crimp Tool 10 Boots & Ends Crimping Kit Play.com - Buy RJ45 Network Crimp Tool 10 Boots & Ends Crimping Kit online at Play.com and read reviews. Free delivery to UK and Europe!|cat:3516420|prd:3516420[CODE]
View 5 Replies View RelatedI have a long 2 pair cat 5 cable which I want to use to connect a ADSL modem to my desktop (located in a different room). I took the cable to few local computer dealers but none of them could connect an RJ-45 connector to it. They can only connect a 4 pair cat 5 cable. Connect a 2 pair cat 5 Ethernet cable to a RJ-45 connector. Kindly use simple language. I have attached an image of the cable for your reference. [URL]
View 5 Replies View RelatedI was recently tasked at work to reinstall phone lines after a remodel. We have 2 phone lines with two phones and a credit card machine. I ran into a piece of equipment and I have no idea what it is so my research into the subject has been halted.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm wiring up the house with CAT6 (I've never done this before). Someone told me to use 'T568B' termination. Every configuration I see on net looks different, and I'm getting confused.
The jacks have double colour coding for each wire as pictured here:I take it 'A' is for T568A, and 'B' is for T568B?So this is how I should arrange the wires for T568B:
I have just moved into a new home and there appear to be ethernet lines running to several rooms, all converging in a wiring box. However, I can't figure out how to make this thing work properly.
The blue cables I'm holding in this picture apparently run to the other rooms of the house. The yellow cable goes to my WRT54G router. A cable modem is plugged into the router. Wireless networking is functioning properly.
If I plug my laptop directly into this box, and disable wireless networking, I can reach the router from the laptop, and the light for the yellow cable going into the router turns on. However, if I plug any of the blue cables into any of the ports on this box, the laptop loses connectivity and the link light on the router turns off, as though the router were not plugged into the box at all.
The cables are cat 3e. There is an alarm system, but it is not active, and I don't think it's actually connected to the box at all. The top-left port is marked "RJ31X Line Intercept", and there is a jumper that can be plugged in there, but it doesn't seem to matter whether it is or is not plugged in.
I am looking to start a proposal for the smallish business I work for. We have about 65 devices on the network with ~ 12 being VOIP phones. Currently our network consists of 2 cisco 2950's and a bunch of daisy chained consumer 5 port switches. I would like to get a couple of 48 port 2960S or 3XXX series catalysis' and run drops to all the devices. It's an older brick building with beamed 15 foot ceilings. It has a couple of semi-enclosed office spaces, with one large space for all the developers and designers. The plan I have involves running a cable tray down the length of the office and run drops off of the main run. I would like to be as cheap as possible with the cable tray, but it seems like all the trays I have seen are about ~50-100 dollars per 10' (not including mounting hardware). Seems extremely expensive for basically wire baskets.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI want to wire the house for Cat6, the current home we live in I had ATT Uverse installed (but I hated it and now with the bandwidth caps I would pass regardless) and they installed Cat5e. I love having a hardwired internet connection in each room so the new place needs to have this done.
-Professional Networking Tool Kit (I was going to buy the stripper/crimper/punch tool but I thought the testing tool would be nice to have)
-1000ft Bulk Solid Cat6 cable 24AWG
-Cat6 Punch down Keystone Jack
Then just zip ties for cable management, cat6 solid plugs + inserts, two hole wall plates and black relief boots. I already have a Netgear GS108 that I'll be bringing with me, if that ends up not being big enough I will just buy a bigger one in the future. I'm planning on running two cables to each room of the house for a total of 12 cables (not all of them will be hooked up, I plan to make sure to label each one at the central location where I'll be keeping the cable modem and switch. Each bedroom will only currently use one port with the spare bedroom not using any but when I'm running cables I'm going to run them all for future proofing our new home. I was thinking of putting the wireless router I have in the living room as if any place will need more than two ports it will be the living room (Receivers, TVs, Bluray players, DirecTV boxes will all end up using RJ45 as I upgrade them).
Moved into a home that has a wiring closet in the basement. Typical wiring closet setup, Cat 5 cables and Coax cables from the house outlets terminate there. There is a Suttle sam v8m voice distribution module installed. Looks exactly like the one in this user manual:Page 5 of 8, Wiring Diagram.URL,However, there is NO Sam D8 switch below installed in the wiring closet. The Cat 5 cables from the home outlets enter the wiring closet and plug directly into the Sam V8m.Can a comcast modem be connected to the Shuttle Sam V8m to make the Cat 5 outlets hot? Or, does the Sam D8 (or similar) need to be installed?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am converting my home phone jacks to network enabled jacks. The house phone system was wired with Cat 5e. All the wall jacks are terminated properly with RJ-45 connectors. At the junction box outside I have connected the 4 pairs to their color equivalent.I have also purchased a "patch board" to terminate and combine all the wiring in one spot.Once all the wires are connected, I tested the wiring (Sperry cable tester).It tells me there is a short in 1-2. I've made it this far and I'm really close, I just need to know which pair I need to focus on. Is pair 1-2 Orange/OrangeWhite, Green/GreenWhite, etc?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm trying to connect a Cisco 2811 using an octal cable to a Juniper MX480 console port.Since the distance between Cisco 2811 and router is 20ft, im using couplers and a straight-through cable for the lack of slack. This wiring doesnt work, however in another city it works going straight from the Cisco 2811 octal cable to the router since they are in the same rack.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI can not get to my control panel. I have tried 192.168.1.1 and 192.168.0.1,. I do have it flashed with DD-wrt. I can access the internet with it, the lights look correct, I don,t believe it is bricked. I have tried hard reset and soft reset.
View 5 Replies View RelatedWe just purchased a Nexus 7010 switch and we are at a stand still with our COLO trying to figure out what power source should be provided. APC recommends a 50amp 3phase vertical cabinet PDU (AP7867). What type of power sourcereakers will be sufficient in handling the Nexus 7k /w (3) power supplies? Do the COLO need to provide single phase or 3 phase power recepticals?
View 7 Replies View RelatedWe recently moved into an office space with a Siemon HD5 panel in the comm room and outlets in cubical spaces. We have an internet feed into the building and we are trying to get all the outlets live. Right now we are using multiple routers to run a cable to each outlet on the HD5 panel. Internet feed to router1 outlets through the HD5 panel & to router2, and router2 to outlets through the HD5 panel. Hope that made sense.This seems very cumbersome to me. Is there a piece missing? How do we get the internet feed to the HD5 panel so we don't have a room full of four/six hole routers?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI just installed Windows XP Professional on my Toshiba-X205 laptop and I am having a problem getting the OS to detect my NIC. I can not remember how to go into the control panel and configure settings so the OS will detect my wireless network or should i say i can not get my OS to detect my NIC so i can to connect to my wireless network. I think i may need to install the device driver for the NIC but i don't remember which driver i need for the NIC of my laptop and i can not find it on the Toshiba website, not supported anymore.
View 1 Replies View Relatedwhat user name do I use to access the E2500 configuration panel. I have used the computer name, adm, adim, and the router default password and I canot log on to the configuration panel.
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View 3 Replies View RelatedI just got back from being gone for a couple weeks and my router stopped working. I tried to reset the router and connect to the admin screen at 192.168.1.1, but it gives a "page not found" error. My internet work with a wired connection to the router, and the computer's IP address is 66.xxx.xxx.xxx. Looking at most forums which talk about this problem it seems like most people have IP addresses starting with 192. Why does mine start with 66? Is this related to the problem of being unable to access the admin screen? This is a home network and I'm running Ubuntu and have a Linksys WRT54G router. I get the same IP address whether I connect just from the modem to the PC, or from modem to router to PC.
View 3 Replies View RelatedHere is the setup: A US Robotics USR-9108 router is connected to an ADSL modem via ethernet cable. The modem, upon connecting with the ISP, provides a gateway address of 192.168.1.1 to the router. End-users including me connect to the internet through the router via WiFi and are assigned the IP 192.168.1.2...192.168.1.255.
When disconnected from the modem, I can access the control panel via 192.168.3.1 but once the ethernet cable is plugged in I cannot access the above-mentioned IP; connecting to 192.168.1.1 opens up the modem's control panel. Any possible way to access the router control panel while it is connected to the internet?