I'm wiring up the house with CAT6 (I've never done this before). Someone told me to use 'T568B' termination. Every configuration I see on net looks different, and I'm getting confused.
The jacks have double colour coding for each wire as pictured here:I take it 'A' is for T568A, and 'B' is for T568B?So this is how I should arrange the wires for T568B:
I received Centurylink DSL modem with hardware but my phone jack wiring was ripped out of wall,no wiring intact.what kind of jack and how to wire them to the jack. The wiring came thru wall are new kind with 4 pairs and have stripes on them.
View 1 Replies View RelatedSO I am not a computer wiz... but I have this outlet in my upstairs wall which has a phone and Cat5e Jack. I would like to set up my wireless router up there but where does the modem go? there is no jack for the cable.
View 1 Replies View Relatedcan i connect a cat6 cable to a cat5 wall jack
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm considering wiring my house for Ethernet (I've chosen Cat 6 cable.). I've read some online guides about this. However, I can't seem to find any that would work with my house, which is a Pueblo-style flat roof with parapets. However, I want to tear out as little drywall as I can. There's already wiring for coax and phone.
View 7 Replies View RelatedSo i'm living in an apartment and brought up my pc desktop from home, issue is that the internet cord was not long enough to connect from my room to the modem outsideTheres apparently an internet jack in my room and i have no idea how to set it up to respond to the modem thats currently placed in the living room.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am purchasing an older home and I am going to have to rewire the networking to the house. I have decided that I am going to push forward with Fiber Optics as my main networking vehicle. As a side I am going to run COAX and Cat-6 along the same cabling routing. The Ethernet and Coax are fairly straight forward, as long as I don't go over 100meter's Cat-6 will do just fine, and can be terminated to a traditional router. The Coax will be to a splitter for television purposes only. Now the difficult and hard to find information on: My plan for the fiber is to run a zipcord Single Mode fiber line to each room of the home. I am using Single Mode Fiber because it has the highest bandwidth for future applications. These runs will be homerun back to a distribution box next to the other comms where it will plugged into a Fiber Optic Switch to network the rooms together. I am going to run 3 lines to my basement (for a home server, office, and HTPC for the basement theatre.), One line to each of the following rooms: Kitchen, Living Room, and Bedrooms. I have bought off the internet the following: 1000ft of SM Zipcord fiber ($199), 4 Fiber Optic Nic's with PCI-Express 1 connections (for $20 a piece, they only run at about 2GB/s, but I can upgrade these in the future as price comes done), 1 16-port 10GB Fiber Optic Switch with trancievers ($140), Terminals and tools: $300.
I have is about connecting my Home Fiber to the internet. I am going to start running Verizon Fios, and that is not a true fiber optic solution because they run a Fiber to their Media Converter and then Coax from there into the house, but I have talked to them and they said they can run the fiber cable into the home. I am wanting to connect that cable straight to my Fiber Optic Switch which would then be connected directly to my computers, as well as a fiber optic wireless router, and then from my switch to their ONT for tv and phone. My question is will this work? What kind of problems will I run into, and what other hardware do I need to get this up and running. I basically do not want to run copper to any of my devices..I either want them to network wirelessly or with a fiber line. (even the wireless will be running fiber since will connect directly to the fiber line via the fiber switch.)So it is expensive, but I believe it is worth it. 200ft of Cat-7 copper costs $199 vs 1000ft Fiber at the same price..and the fact that Cat-7 does have a life-limit on it's bandwidth where as fiber is the future.
I just need to add new connectors and I'm good to go. The PCs have cabinets with Ethernet sockets in them and these will also need re-wiring with a RJ45 jack then a faceplate mounting as they are totally bare at the minute.Also, I think I need to learn this as a whole, it will become a regular thing, do I need the following tools to do the basics of cabling ?RJ45 Network Crimp Tool 10 Boots & Ends Crimping Kit Play.com - Buy RJ45 Network Crimp Tool 10 Boots & Ends Crimping Kit online at Play.com and read reviews. Free delivery to UK and Europe!|cat:3516420|prd:3516420[CODE]
View 5 Replies View RelatedI have a long 2 pair cat 5 cable which I want to use to connect a ADSL modem to my desktop (located in a different room). I took the cable to few local computer dealers but none of them could connect an RJ-45 connector to it. They can only connect a 4 pair cat 5 cable. Connect a 2 pair cat 5 Ethernet cable to a RJ-45 connector. Kindly use simple language. I have attached an image of the cable for your reference. [URL]
View 5 Replies View RelatedI was recently tasked at work to reinstall phone lines after a remodel. We have 2 phone lines with two phones and a credit card machine. I ran into a piece of equipment and I have no idea what it is so my research into the subject has been halted.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have just moved into a new home and there appear to be ethernet lines running to several rooms, all converging in a wiring box. However, I can't figure out how to make this thing work properly.
The blue cables I'm holding in this picture apparently run to the other rooms of the house. The yellow cable goes to my WRT54G router. A cable modem is plugged into the router. Wireless networking is functioning properly.
If I plug my laptop directly into this box, and disable wireless networking, I can reach the router from the laptop, and the light for the yellow cable going into the router turns on. However, if I plug any of the blue cables into any of the ports on this box, the laptop loses connectivity and the link light on the router turns off, as though the router were not plugged into the box at all.
The cables are cat 3e. There is an alarm system, but it is not active, and I don't think it's actually connected to the box at all. The top-left port is marked "RJ31X Line Intercept", and there is a jumper that can be plugged in there, but it doesn't seem to matter whether it is or is not plugged in.
Is it possible to buy an adapter that, when plugged into the cable jack. will give me internet? My wireless network is painfully slow since it's based in the basement yet I work in the attic. (DL speeds tap out at around 250kbps)I dont have an ethernet only the cable jack.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am looking to start a proposal for the smallish business I work for. We have about 65 devices on the network with ~ 12 being VOIP phones. Currently our network consists of 2 cisco 2950's and a bunch of daisy chained consumer 5 port switches. I would like to get a couple of 48 port 2960S or 3XXX series catalysis' and run drops to all the devices. It's an older brick building with beamed 15 foot ceilings. It has a couple of semi-enclosed office spaces, with one large space for all the developers and designers. The plan I have involves running a cable tray down the length of the office and run drops off of the main run. I would like to be as cheap as possible with the cable tray, but it seems like all the trays I have seen are about ~50-100 dollars per 10' (not including mounting hardware). Seems extremely expensive for basically wire baskets.
View 3 Replies View Relatedinfo on RJ45 patch panel wiring standards. Is there an Australian standard that specifies exposed cable pairs be not more than 13mm at termination point (RJ45) wiring cat cable?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI want to wire the house for Cat6, the current home we live in I had ATT Uverse installed (but I hated it and now with the bandwidth caps I would pass regardless) and they installed Cat5e. I love having a hardwired internet connection in each room so the new place needs to have this done.
-Professional Networking Tool Kit (I was going to buy the stripper/crimper/punch tool but I thought the testing tool would be nice to have)
-1000ft Bulk Solid Cat6 cable 24AWG
-Cat6 Punch down Keystone Jack
Then just zip ties for cable management, cat6 solid plugs + inserts, two hole wall plates and black relief boots. I already have a Netgear GS108 that I'll be bringing with me, if that ends up not being big enough I will just buy a bigger one in the future. I'm planning on running two cables to each room of the house for a total of 12 cables (not all of them will be hooked up, I plan to make sure to label each one at the central location where I'll be keeping the cable modem and switch. Each bedroom will only currently use one port with the spare bedroom not using any but when I'm running cables I'm going to run them all for future proofing our new home. I was thinking of putting the wireless router I have in the living room as if any place will need more than two ports it will be the living room (Receivers, TVs, Bluray players, DirecTV boxes will all end up using RJ45 as I upgrade them).
All wires terminate in the basement as a RJ-45 plug, to be plugged into a switch housed in an old circuit breaker box. The first wire went off without a hitch, the jack works, the plug works, all is right with the world. The router for the home is currently plugged into that outlet so as to give the entire network as we build it internet. The second outlet is giving us problems though. I've fished the wire up the wall as before, and the length of wire is shorter than the first run. When I terminate the end upstairs as a jack, then plug in my laptop, it refuses to connect. It says the network cable is unplugged. If I terminate the cable as a plug, then plug it directly into the laptop, suddenly everything works. I have tried so far 3 different jacks, tested continuity on the jacks, and tested continuity on the wire to the jack pins to make sure the terminal block was working and everything came back green
View 9 Replies View RelatedOn my closet's patch panel, there's one ethernet jack that is labeled "IDF5", I was just wondering what it is used for.
View 3 Replies View RelatedDoes magic jack works with dial-up or should I up-grade with high speed internet ?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a D link 655 wireless router and my magic jack calls end after 15 seconds.
View 2 Replies View RelatedMy magic jack phone has stopped working and I cannot make ( or possibly receive) any phone calls
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have a phone jack in my computer. i want to connect to the internet on it. I have an arris modem that supports the Internet phone but it has Ethernet port too can i just use the telephone port on the modem to connect to the inet?
View 1 Replies View RelatedMoved into a home that has a wiring closet in the basement. Typical wiring closet setup, Cat 5 cables and Coax cables from the house outlets terminate there. There is a Suttle sam v8m voice distribution module installed. Looks exactly like the one in this user manual:Page 5 of 8, Wiring Diagram.URL,However, there is NO Sam D8 switch below installed in the wiring closet. The Cat 5 cables from the home outlets enter the wiring closet and plug directly into the Sam V8m.Can a comcast modem be connected to the Shuttle Sam V8m to make the Cat 5 outlets hot? Or, does the Sam D8 (or similar) need to be installed?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am converting my home phone jacks to network enabled jacks. The house phone system was wired with Cat 5e. All the wall jacks are terminated properly with RJ-45 connectors. At the junction box outside I have connected the 4 pairs to their color equivalent.I have also purchased a "patch board" to terminate and combine all the wiring in one spot.Once all the wires are connected, I tested the wiring (Sperry cable tester).It tells me there is a short in 1-2. I've made it this far and I'm really close, I just need to know which pair I need to focus on. Is pair 1-2 Orange/OrangeWhite, Green/GreenWhite, etc?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a network closet where all the ethernet ports in each room of the house is routed to so wired routing performance must be good.I also need a good wifi network since we have multiple laptops and tablets we use around the home. I do have 2.4GHz and 5GHz devices so I need the dual, simultaneous wifi operation.The gear I can choose from to do this:
Asus RT-N56U
OR
Cisco RVS4000 + Netgear WNDAP360
The home is a 2-story unit and the networking closet is upstairs near the front of the house. If I go with the Asus RT-N56U, the wifi network will be centered in the network closet. If I go with the Cisco RVS4000 + Netgear WNDAP360, the Cisco router will be in the network closet and the Netgear WNDAP360 will be connected to an ethernet jack closer to the center of the house.
I need to replace my old router because the wires are broken and the problem is it needs a phone jack for the phone line we use cable not land line. My modem is SVB5120 SURFboard Motorola.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI would like to be able to modernize these outlets with a new RJ11 jack for telephone and replace the electric outlets with fresh ones. Problem is, no one can lead me to where I can find new wall plates for this combo setup style. Someone has told me this is out of code for many years now and there is no clear cut path to modernizing it besides just moving the telco jack/box out of the electric gang box and into its own separate box to the side.
Upgrading such "messes" to standard modular RJ11 plugs, and finding wallplates for it?
my cat5 wiring seems to b wrong,so i need the wire combination of a cat5e cable on a patch panel
View 1 Replies View RelatedI can not get onto the internet via dial up. The message says that I have no dial tone. Using the same line, I get a dial tone on the phone. I can get onto the internet via a DSL connection, but it will not make a connection when I have a telehone line inserted in the phone line jack. This problem started after the power went off and on quickly two times. I have followed all the instructions that I have found to reset the modem, but to no avail. Is it possible that the phone line jack needs to be replaced.I have a gateway laptop with Vista program.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have CAT5 cables run throughout my house to a few different jacks. They plug into my modem downstairs. I want to hook up my desktop internet through one of the wall jacks upstairs. The wall jack has CAT5 cable run to it but only accepts telephone wire sized jacks. How do I connect to the internet with this setup?
View 14 Replies View RelatedI'm wiring the house with CAT6 solid cable. Can I use CAT5e wall sockets?
Are there actually any differences between CAT5e rated sockets and CAT6 rated sockets, aside from the latter being vastly overpriced?
I'm trying to connect a Cisco 2811 using an octal cable to a Juniper MX480 console port.Since the distance between Cisco 2811 and router is 20ft, im using couplers and a straight-through cable for the lack of slack. This wiring doesnt work, however in another city it works going straight from the Cisco 2811 octal cable to the router since they are in the same rack.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI got my WRT54GL v1.1 yesterday and connected it to my pc [wired] and netbook [wireless]. I thought all was well until I noticed that my Magic Jack VoIP telephone began dropping calls after about 1 minute. My first course of action was to disable SPI firewall in router and reboot. That had no affect on the situation, then I noticed that my send light on my cale modem [ no manufacturer listed on unit] was not blinking as it has done before the router installation. I reverted to my cable modem to pc only set up and my Magic Jack worked just fine. I need to use the router for wireless, so I need to find a solution to this problem. I took a look at my firmware version and saw that it was not current, but I wanted to bring my problem here for a possible solution be for I flashed new firmware.
View 9 Replies View RelatedI'm going to be running CAT6 throughout my house (once I figure out all the paths and buy the cable) with the home runs going to a patch panel in the basement.
I've been wondering if I should terminate each cable with a male RJ45 end and use a patch panel with RJ45 female-female keystone couplers or; terminate each cable with a female RJ45 keystone jack and snap it into a keystone patch panel.
I'm just wondering if there are any pros and cons to each, each method seems to be exactly the same, just buying different pieces.