I have a Netgear CG3100 modem hooked up to a Netgear WNR2000 router. Both are sending out signals, the CG3100 on channel 11 at 40 Mhz and the WNR2000 on channel 1 at 20/40 Mhz. I keep the WNR for legacy devices while the CG is for N devices only. They don't seem to interfere with each other much.Currently my computer is the only device connected to the modem wirelessly, with the only wired connection being the router. As I write this, the connection has actually dropped to 26 Mbps in the Wireless Network Connection Status window. I understand that this number drops under network load, but there doesn't seem to be any at the moment. If I go into the control panel and simply click apply, the connection jumps back up to 150 Mbps. However, this always drops back down, sometimes immediately, sometimes after a few minutes. It usually settles down at 72 Mbps, sometimes 54 Mbps.My wireless adapter is an ASUS PCE-N13 with v3.2.7.0 Ralink drivers. OS is Windows 7 64-bit.
I have a Rosewill RNX N300X wireless adapter that keeps dropping to 1 mbps, and only goes up to about 18 mbps on a good day. How can I force a 54 mbps connection?
- I am running the latest drivers for the card.
- The network is "g", card accepts b/g/n.
- Another computer running RNX N360PC is getting a perfect connection on the same network.
I just ran some speedtests om my PC on the advice of my isp to see if my Linksys WRT54G router might be bad. As a result, I found that the router might not be entirely bad, but it might not be entirely good, either. I got .77 Mbps dowload and .17 Mbps upload on the first speedtest. I got .43 Mbps download on the second speedtest and the speed test hung hear the end. When I connected an IMac to the cable modem with an ethernet cable, the IMac ran strong. So the tech thought I should get a new router.
But wait a minute, isn't there a network adapter in the PC that the router talks to? Might the adapter be the problem, not the router? So I speedtested the wireless network to the IMac. That speedtest was fine, tiptop, like the ethernet direct connection test noted above. Did that tell me that the problem is in my PC network adapter, not the router? Then, I retested (speedtested) the connection on the PC and it was fine...excellent. Good up and down speeds, no hangs.Then, I checked the PC adapter (a Belkin). I saw three adapters on Device Manager, including the Belkin. I downloaded new drivers for the adapters (except for the Microsoft Virtual WiFi Minipoty Adapter - because it got a warning that the download software wasn't signed and might harm my computer).
Installation of 2 x 4 Mbps MPLS circuit on primary router (CISCO 2951) and 1 x 8 Mbps Ethernet link on secondary router (Cisco 2951). We have successfully implement the primary router with 2 x 4 Mbps MPLS circuit. Site is having two computer room CR1 and CR2 and distance between both room is 200mts. CR1 is having primary core router and primary core switch where the service provider terminated the new MPLS circuit and we have done the successful implementation. CR2 is having Secondary core router and secondary core switch where we needs to have the termination of Ethernet link but service provider has delivered the Ethernet link on the CR1 which is incorrect DMARC Location.
Both the computer rooms are connected via optical copper can we use that copper to connect the circuit on CR2, as per my understanding we can use the optical fiber to connect the wind circuit on secondary router on CR2 by using the media connector.
So I have installed my new E4200 version 1 and I am disappointed with the speeds. My computer has a wireless N card and gigabit Ethernet compatibility. I am currently getting a miserly 54 mbs wireless and 100 mbs on the wire (connected with cat6 all the way)... Anything I should try to get close to advertized speeds?
Which is the wireless speed of this router? No speed infos are present in the official web site. In the web some sites say it's a 300, others say it's a 150, others 248...
I have a desktop and laptop here, the desktop being mine custom built wireless and all, and my buddies desktop.The issue that I'm having is that my desktop, regardless of wired or wireless gets 25 mbps down speed, and the laptop gets only 2.5 mbps down speed wired or wireless
I have 100 Mbps Half Duplex on one side of the Switch. ( Autonegotiation disabled )I have 10 Mbps Full Duplex on the other side ( Auto-negotiation disabled ). Should the link come up on both sides
I have a 128mb connection with a sa 500 series fw/router. When I turn on the ips function my throughput drops to 15 Mbps and the CPU max goes up to 100%. What gives?
I just upgraded my cable modem from the Motorola Sufboard 5120 to the DOCSIS 3.0 capable 6120. Provisioned it with Comcast and their "Blast" service (supposedly it caps at 16 down, 2 up).
I had, in the past, used my desktop via N-format wireless (DWA-525 N-format PCI adapter and DIR-655 N-format router) to do a speedtest.net test. I was getting 16 down and 2 up (as advertised). When I switched to the 6120, I did a speedtest.net test again to see what kind of gains, if any, I was getting. Turns out, I was getting 20+ down (nice improvement) and 1/2 Mbps up (a fourth of what I used to be getting?). Called Comcast. They "sent signals" (don't they always?) and claimed that it fixed it. My download speeds increased a smidge (about 22), but my upload speeds were still .5. Called Motorola, they had me do a few things and now I get 1 Mbps up and 27 - 30 down via wireless.
My download speeds are great. I'm content with that. If I hardwire from the cable modem directly to a ****py old laptop, a speedtest.net shows 4 Mbps up. So why do I get such a high upload speed when hardwired (4 Mbps), but a fraction of it (1/4th) when wireless? I'm not using any other devices to sap bandwidth (some are connected -- i.e. another desktop, my Droid phone, etc., but aren't actively pulling packets). And why would it go from 2 up (on my desktop via wireless in the past) to only 1 up (via wireless now) when the setup is the same across the board (as best I recall) other than upgrading my cable modem.
Since I get 4 up when hardwired straight off the cable modem, I assume my DIR-655 is slowing me down somehow. How to pick up the pace a bit? I've already tried the standard "power cycling", etc.
Oh, and the reason I go wireless -- my cable modem and wireless router are in my game room in the basement for my PS3. My desktop computer (and the wife's desktop computer) are two floors directly above it in our "office". Signal strength is "excellent" ... always has been. And again, pretty much everything is the same.
I purchased a new router - cisco e1000. Currently, i have 2 laptops wirelessly connected to this router. When i do a broadband speed test, the speed drops down significantly to 8MBPS while if i connect it to the cable modem directly (wired) i.e., without router, i'm getting 15 MBPS download speed. I did a couple of times this speed check and the results are same. I tried changing the advanced settings in the router (which was specified in one of the post in this forum) but no luck. Is it that i need to buy e4200 to match the wired speed of 15 MBPS or what other things I can do to get the same speed of my cable modem (provided by my ISP)?
I'm running a Cisco E4200V2 router with the latest firmware (2.1.4.12284) on an iMac running OS X 10.8. My ISP is providing 15Mbps to my modem, which I've confirmed by connecting directly to it without the router. Once I put the router back in the path, my broadband speed drops to about 6 Mbps. Is this the best I can expect from this router?
I was wondering why the heck I'm getting BELOW 1 mbps toward my internet connection? I look at my wireless signal, and it's full. yet, I go on speedtest and have about 0.20 mbps.
Info - My parents pay nearly $100 for this bundle thing with the internet, phone, and something else, I think TV.
provider - windstream
router - F@ST 1704
Also, the router is currently on top of the main computer in the office, on top of the router is a house phone.Yet, if I move the house phone, nothing changes. The computer is on the floor.Should i move it? Would this improve my connection?Even the main computer that's wired with the router gets the same mpbs as wireless.
I'm using an HP G60 laptop, running Win 7 Pro x64 SP1, fully patched. I'm usually in the home office, connected to a D-Link DIR-615 router (h/w: E3, f/w: 5.10, the latest). The internal Atheros AR9285 N150 wireless adapter has never been as reliable as I'd like, so decided to purchase a USB N300 adapter. I bought a TP-Link model for $10 and started using it. For some reason, it would only connect at 150, unless I ran the router's Web interface and saved the wireless settings, even without a change, at which point I'd see 300 Mbps. However, at the next restart after hibernation, the connection with the DIR-615 would fall back to 150.
I stepped on the TP-Link USB adapter and broke it. Oops. Decided to purchase a D-Link DWA-131 (h/w: A1, f/w: 1.21, the latest) 'cause it's compact and the box says that, "For Optimal Wireless Performance +Use With Wireless N 300 Router (DIR-615)."Expected 300 Mbps, but it connected at 65. Argh. Did the trick again with the DIR-615's Web interface, and saw 150. But after restart from hibernation, back down to 65. Unable to achieve 300 Mbps, unlike the cheap-o TP-Link adapter. Router is configured according to Lycan's sticky note. Router's Wireless Status shows a signal of 39%, and the router is in the next room in a wood-framed building.Is this as good as it can be? Looks like the DWA-131 is coupla years old with no new drivers for Win 7. Ran the DSL Reports Java speed test, and seeing 18+ Mbps d/l, and 1.8 Mbps u/l, which is about average from Cox here in The OC. If I can't get a faster connection, then D-Link's claim of "optimal performance" is misleading.
Is there any reason to apply qos to a 1.5 mbps connection. i had comcast with a 15 mbps connection and qos was good for when downloading large files and gaming and all that at the same time. but i have moved and i only can get dsl at 1.5 mbps.
I have a Linksys e2000 wireless router, my laptop connects fine, but as i keep hovering my mouse over the wireless icon in my system tray, it keeps changing Mbps from 130 at its highest going down into double digit Mbps, then back up to 130. Why wouldn't it stay connected at 130 all the time?Someone said to try lowering the beacon interval, fragmentation threshold, RTS threshold, and mtu size, but will doing that decrease the speed of my connection to the router?
I know that this Router of D-Link DIR-655 can't handle 450 Mbps Wireless Connection.
What is the newest D-Link Router available that can handle 450 Mbps Wireless Connection? Does the Network Wireless Adapters need to be change to achieve this?
TRENDnet 450 Mbps Wireless N Gigabit Router TEW-691GR (Piano Black)
Recently, I am having an issue with my LAN connection. After I boot up, I get the "two computer" icon in my system tray that stays active. When I mouse over it, it says "Local Area Network Speed 100 Mbps Status - Acquiring Network Address"However, I am connected to the internet and there seems to be no connectivity problems. And it has an IP address: 192.168.1.66 This "acquiring network address" will persist forever, (although sometimes it will quit). If I right-click and do repair, the problem disappears immediately.I am running Win XP SP3 and am connected by ethernet cable to an ATT-U-verse Gateway.For what it's worth, Windows takes a very long time to boot up -- it takes a while for the icon to appear, and then the boot process completes.
i have Cisco 3845 with 1 GB SFP, my company using fiber as backbone to isp, i have new internet connection 310 Mbps, does that enough ? does that for port only for LAN or also for WAN ?
I have a Router 877 and a switch 3750 also a 10 mbps internet connection and I want to share the internet connection to 5 different vlans with a maximum of 2mbps each one or 2 mbps guaranteed. The switch and the router are connected for a trunk port and the vlans are defined in both devices. I have tried many configurations of this with no success.
I have 100 mbps fiber connection. I bought 320N today I bought 320N and here is the problem:
We have a switch in the building. I am getting connection via CAT5. So I choosed "Use as WAN Port" from Ethernet settings. There is not much you can do here. I just used PPPoE and connected internet without any problem. The problem is I am only getting 32mbps. When I connect CAT5 cable directly to my computer I am getting 92mbps.
Maybe WAG320N is not establishing a full duplex connection.
I'm planning to network using powerline adapter for gaming. I know it's not the best solution but i don't have any other choice. My doubt is to buy whether a 500Mbps or 200Mbps. Will this 500 Mbps increase performance ?
I had tried to connect my internet using a 10/100 standard Ethernet card but my net connection was fluctuating. My Brother who is a network engineer told me to switch back to 10 mbps from 100 mbps full duplex and he prayed if that might work. Luckily enough it worked and solved my purpose of delivering uninterrupted net connection.
We have a wireless router that is constantly disconnecting/dropping our laptops from the internet. We have had this router for about 2.5 years. Is there a specific router out there that doesn't drop. We currently have a Netgear 108 mbps.
The title of the thread says it all, but perhaps it does not speak to the level of frustration my family and I are experiencing with our DSL internet service:� Many simple, easy-to-load sites like Google will not load on the first try. On Safari, the bottom toolbar will say "Connecting to google.com" until I refresh the page or restart the web browser. Internet Explorer and Firefox are no better -- I've triedA two-minute YouTube video will take about 10 minutes to load (if the page loads in the first place, which it often does not). Speed test sites, like speedtest.net, which reported a 0.05 mbps download speed and a 0.20 mbps upload speed, usually do not work. I had to refresh speedtest.net four or five times before the "testing download speed" section worked.
Gmail has become so slow that I have to use the HTML version, and even that will fail to register my commands about half the time.The only way for me to view most webpages in a reliable manner is to Google search for them, then click on the "Cached" page, and then click "Text-only version." Stuff other than text will prevent the page from loading about 50% of the time.We have a Qwest modem but our ISP is called "TIES." We have their "Residential DSL connection," as described here:
our company has 1 mbps lease line for internet connectivity. but while monitoring i saw it goes up to 1.4 - 1.6 mbps. how can i reduce the access rate and maintain it below 1 mbps ???
Running Windows XP with a 802.11n wireless card built in to my laptop. Just bought a new wireless n access point, configured it to be wireless n only and connected my laptop to it no problems. but i noticed at various times when i hover over the wireless connection icon in my dock, the Mbps i'm getting keeps fluctuating. i've seen it go as low as 26 Mbps to up in the 100s.
I am wondering if I should use my old 100 mbps router as a bridge and use the 300mbps one as the main. Or vice versa. I will mostly be gaming on the bridged router and will have a cat6 going from the router to the computer.
