I know that this Router of D-Link DIR-655 can't handle 450 Mbps Wireless Connection.
What is the newest D-Link Router available that can handle 450 Mbps Wireless Connection? Does the Network Wireless Adapters need to be change to achieve this?
TRENDnet 450 Mbps Wireless N Gigabit Router TEW-691GR (Piano Black)
Installation of 2 x 4 Mbps MPLS circuit on primary router (CISCO 2951) and 1 x 8 Mbps Ethernet link on secondary router (Cisco 2951). We have successfully implement the primary router with 2 x 4 Mbps MPLS circuit. Site is having two computer room CR1 and CR2 and distance between both room is 200mts. CR1 is having primary core router and primary core switch where the service provider terminated the new MPLS circuit and we have done the successful implementation. CR2 is having Secondary core router and secondary core switch where we needs to have the termination of Ethernet link but service provider has delivered the Ethernet link on the CR1 which is incorrect DMARC Location.
Both the computer rooms are connected via optical copper can we use that copper to connect the circuit on CR2, as per my understanding we can use the optical fiber to connect the wind circuit on secondary router on CR2 by using the media connector.
I'm using an HP G60 laptop, running Win 7 Pro x64 SP1, fully patched. I'm usually in the home office, connected to a D-Link DIR-615 router (h/w: E3, f/w: 5.10, the latest). The internal Atheros AR9285 N150 wireless adapter has never been as reliable as I'd like, so decided to purchase a USB N300 adapter. I bought a TP-Link model for $10 and started using it. For some reason, it would only connect at 150, unless I ran the router's Web interface and saved the wireless settings, even without a change, at which point I'd see 300 Mbps. However, at the next restart after hibernation, the connection with the DIR-615 would fall back to 150.
I stepped on the TP-Link USB adapter and broke it. Oops. Decided to purchase a D-Link DWA-131 (h/w: A1, f/w: 1.21, the latest) 'cause it's compact and the box says that, "For Optimal Wireless Performance +Use With Wireless N 300 Router (DIR-615)."Expected 300 Mbps, but it connected at 65. Argh. Did the trick again with the DIR-615's Web interface, and saw 150. But after restart from hibernation, back down to 65. Unable to achieve 300 Mbps, unlike the cheap-o TP-Link adapter. Router is configured according to Lycan's sticky note. Router's Wireless Status shows a signal of 39%, and the router is in the next room in a wood-framed building.Is this as good as it can be? Looks like the DWA-131 is coupla years old with no new drivers for Win 7. Ran the DSL Reports Java speed test, and seeing 18+ Mbps d/l, and 1.8 Mbps u/l, which is about average from Cox here in The OC. If I can't get a faster connection, then D-Link's claim of "optimal performance" is misleading.
I just upgraded my cable modem from the Motorola Sufboard 5120 to the DOCSIS 3.0 capable 6120. Provisioned it with Comcast and their "Blast" service (supposedly it caps at 16 down, 2 up).
I had, in the past, used my desktop via N-format wireless (DWA-525 N-format PCI adapter and DIR-655 N-format router) to do a speedtest.net test. I was getting 16 down and 2 up (as advertised). When I switched to the 6120, I did a speedtest.net test again to see what kind of gains, if any, I was getting. Turns out, I was getting 20+ down (nice improvement) and 1/2 Mbps up (a fourth of what I used to be getting?). Called Comcast. They "sent signals" (don't they always?) and claimed that it fixed it. My download speeds increased a smidge (about 22), but my upload speeds were still .5. Called Motorola, they had me do a few things and now I get 1 Mbps up and 27 - 30 down via wireless.
My download speeds are great. I'm content with that. If I hardwire from the cable modem directly to a ****py old laptop, a speedtest.net shows 4 Mbps up. So why do I get such a high upload speed when hardwired (4 Mbps), but a fraction of it (1/4th) when wireless? I'm not using any other devices to sap bandwidth (some are connected -- i.e. another desktop, my Droid phone, etc., but aren't actively pulling packets). And why would it go from 2 up (on my desktop via wireless in the past) to only 1 up (via wireless now) when the setup is the same across the board (as best I recall) other than upgrading my cable modem.
Since I get 4 up when hardwired straight off the cable modem, I assume my DIR-655 is slowing me down somehow. How to pick up the pace a bit? I've already tried the standard "power cycling", etc.
Oh, and the reason I go wireless -- my cable modem and wireless router are in my game room in the basement for my PS3. My desktop computer (and the wife's desktop computer) are two floors directly above it in our "office". Signal strength is "excellent" ... always has been. And again, pretty much everything is the same.
I have a Netgear CG3100 modem hooked up to a Netgear WNR2000 router. Both are sending out signals, the CG3100 on channel 11 at 40 Mhz and the WNR2000 on channel 1 at 20/40 Mhz. I keep the WNR for legacy devices while the CG is for N devices only. They don't seem to interfere with each other much.Currently my computer is the only device connected to the modem wirelessly, with the only wired connection being the router. As I write this, the connection has actually dropped to 26 Mbps in the Wireless Network Connection Status window. I understand that this number drops under network load, but there doesn't seem to be any at the moment. If I go into the control panel and simply click apply, the connection jumps back up to 150 Mbps. However, this always drops back down, sometimes immediately, sometimes after a few minutes. It usually settles down at 72 Mbps, sometimes 54 Mbps.My wireless adapter is an ASUS PCE-N13 with v3.2.7.0 Ralink drivers. OS is Windows 7 64-bit.
I just ran some speedtests om my PC on the advice of my isp to see if my Linksys WRT54G router might be bad. As a result, I found that the router might not be entirely bad, but it might not be entirely good, either. I got .77 Mbps dowload and .17 Mbps upload on the first speedtest. I got .43 Mbps download on the second speedtest and the speed test hung hear the end. When I connected an IMac to the cable modem with an ethernet cable, the IMac ran strong. So the tech thought I should get a new router.
But wait a minute, isn't there a network adapter in the PC that the router talks to? Might the adapter be the problem, not the router? So I speedtested the wireless network to the IMac. That speedtest was fine, tiptop, like the ethernet direct connection test noted above. Did that tell me that the problem is in my PC network adapter, not the router? Then, I retested (speedtested) the connection on the PC and it was fine...excellent. Good up and down speeds, no hangs.Then, I checked the PC adapter (a Belkin). I saw three adapters on Device Manager, including the Belkin. I downloaded new drivers for the adapters (except for the Microsoft Virtual WiFi Minipoty Adapter - because it got a warning that the download software wasn't signed and might harm my computer).
So I have installed my new E4200 version 1 and I am disappointed with the speeds. My computer has a wireless N card and gigabit Ethernet compatibility. I am currently getting a miserly 54 mbs wireless and 100 mbs on the wire (connected with cat6 all the way)... Anything I should try to get close to advertized speeds?
Which is the wireless speed of this router? No speed infos are present in the official web site. In the web some sites say it's a 300, others say it's a 150, others 248...
I have a desktop and laptop here, the desktop being mine custom built wireless and all, and my buddies desktop.The issue that I'm having is that my desktop, regardless of wired or wireless gets 25 mbps down speed, and the laptop gets only 2.5 mbps down speed wired or wireless
I have a Linksys e2000 wireless router, my laptop connects fine, but as i keep hovering my mouse over the wireless icon in my system tray, it keeps changing Mbps from 130 at its highest going down into double digit Mbps, then back up to 130. Why wouldn't it stay connected at 130 all the time?Someone said to try lowering the beacon interval, fragmentation threshold, RTS threshold, and mtu size, but will doing that decrease the speed of my connection to the router?
I have a Rosewill RNX N300X wireless adapter that keeps dropping to 1 mbps, and only goes up to about 18 mbps on a good day. How can I force a 54 mbps connection?
- I am running the latest drivers for the card.
- The network is "g", card accepts b/g/n.
- Another computer running RNX N360PC is getting a perfect connection on the same network.
How many devices can my century link modem/router handle? i have 2 iphone 4s's a Mac and 2 ps3's is this to much for it? i have a desktop pc that stays wired in.
This is only a small portion of our network but my question is, can these 1841 routers handle a 45Meg connection? I thought these routers were designed for T1/E1 type speeds. I know I saw a router performance document somewhere that showed 1841's could handle 38.4MB of traffic and that is only with routing turned on. If anything else is enabled, like access lists, NetFlow or whatever, that number will decrease because of the capacity of the router. Am I correct in these statements? Any document or anything else that shows performance of these routers?
I just bought a DCS-2130 for outdoor use (city landscape through my window in the nineteenth floor), and I'm trying to get it work during the daylight, but I'm having some problems.It seems like this camera can't handle direct sunlight, and in these situations the image gets blurry, even when I set the exposure to auto with max of 0dB in setup menu. Simply there's nothing I can do in this options menu to solve this problem.As the day passes by (and the sunlight gets weaker), the image gets better 'til the night, when it's perfect.What I need to know is if there is any way to setup it properly for daylight use. Is there possible to setup these exposure parameteres some other way, like editing an .ini file or something like that? Or this expensive camera simply can't handle this?
I was wondering why the heck I'm getting BELOW 1 mbps toward my internet connection? I look at my wireless signal, and it's full. yet, I go on speedtest and have about 0.20 mbps.
Info - My parents pay nearly $100 for this bundle thing with the internet, phone, and something else, I think TV.
provider - windstream
router - F@ST 1704
Also, the router is currently on top of the main computer in the office, on top of the router is a house phone.Yet, if I move the house phone, nothing changes. The computer is on the floor.Should i move it? Would this improve my connection?Even the main computer that's wired with the router gets the same mpbs as wireless.
Been plauged with some slow speeds lately and decided to check the speeds, with cable in modem i have 4.9 mbps upload but when i go through the router i have 0.3 mbps. Router is relatively new, just a couple months, firmware 8.00.
Is there any reason to apply qos to a 1.5 mbps connection. i had comcast with a 15 mbps connection and qos was good for when downloading large files and gaming and all that at the same time. but i have moved and i only can get dsl at 1.5 mbps.
my problem is that i have a computer connected via gigabit lan with a cat5e cable.i have a notebook with a d-link dwa-140 usb wifi adapter connected.and the max transfer speed i get is 14 mbps. d-link dir-655 firmware 1.34eu.in windows it reports 300mbps.in the router it reports 270 mbps sometimes 300. the settings in the router is 40mhz only,. ch 13. wpa2 aes. as described in the sticky.the devices are within 3 ft of each other.
I have 2811 Cisco ISR and two ISP links - one is 8 Mbps and the second is 4 Mbps. The question is - is it possible to aggregate link speed up to 12 Mbps?
Recently, I am having an issue with my LAN connection. After I boot up, I get the "two computer" icon in my system tray that stays active. When I mouse over it, it says "Local Area Network Speed 100 Mbps Status - Acquiring Network Address"However, I am connected to the internet and there seems to be no connectivity problems. And it has an IP address: 192.168.1.66 This "acquiring network address" will persist forever, (although sometimes it will quit). If I right-click and do repair, the problem disappears immediately.I am running Win XP SP3 and am connected by ethernet cable to an ATT-U-verse Gateway.For what it's worth, Windows takes a very long time to boot up -- it takes a while for the icon to appear, and then the boot process completes.
i have Cisco 3845 with 1 GB SFP, my company using fiber as backbone to isp, i have new internet connection 310 Mbps, does that enough ? does that for port only for LAN or also for WAN ?
I have 100 Mbps Half Duplex on one side of the Switch. ( Autonegotiation disabled )I have 10 Mbps Full Duplex on the other side ( Auto-negotiation disabled ). Should the link come up on both sides
I have a Router 877 and a switch 3750 also a 10 mbps internet connection and I want to share the internet connection to 5 different vlans with a maximum of 2mbps each one or 2 mbps guaranteed. The switch and the router are connected for a trunk port and the vlans are defined in both devices. I have tried many configurations of this with no success.
I have 100 mbps fiber connection. I bought 320N today I bought 320N and here is the problem:
We have a switch in the building. I am getting connection via CAT5. So I choosed "Use as WAN Port" from Ethernet settings. There is not much you can do here. I just used PPPoE and connected internet without any problem. The problem is I am only getting 32mbps. When I connect CAT5 cable directly to my computer I am getting 92mbps.
Maybe WAG320N is not establishing a full duplex connection.
I'd like to use an SG200 swicth to allocate bandwidth on a 100 Mbps fiber Internet uplink.I will have 5 routers (each supporting a separate network) connected to the SG200, and I'd like to give each network 20 Mbps. QOS configuration, best CIR and CBS settings for this.