what's the best antenna arrangement for wall mounting the WAP4410N?I see pictures of the antennas for desk mount but nothing for a wall or ceiling mount.Should I just fiddle with them and see what works best?
if the mounting bracket for 3600 AP is the same as the 3500/1140/1040 mounting bracket? I'm suspecting it's not as you can get modules that fit onto the back of the 3600 APs.
I am still new to wireless. I have been studing for my CCNA Wireless for about 6 months now so I still have a lot of questions.
Right now I have to deploy some new APs. We are using 3502e APs. I have a qustion on how to mount antennas for these access points. I have to make a mounting bracket the new installations. What was done with the previous APs was to mount a unistrut beam to an I beam in the building. There is 2 AIR-ANT-1728's and 2 AIR-ANT-5160V-R antennas mounted straight out on the unistrut. Then they put a T bracket on the unistrut and mounted a second bar 90 degrees from the main bar and connected the third 1728 and 5160 antennas on the second mounting bracket. So we have 4 antennas in a row, and two off to the side 90 degrees from the other 4 antennas.
My question, is this OK to have them this way, or would it be better to have all 6 antennas in a straight line when I fabricate my new AP brackets?
Here is a picture of what I am talking about. This would be looking at it from above. Current New Proposal __________o__o__o__o_ _________o__o__o__o__o__o | AP AP | |o | |o
I want to replace existing 1242s with 1262s. Which are currently in a Heated Nema Enclosures with 12dBi Mast Mount AIR-ANT24120. The 5.0 Ghz Radio is off. So the question is can I use the same Antennas AIR-ANT24120 for the new 1262? I’m assuming yes as long I use connectors A & C are tx/rx; on the center would we leave open or put a rubber duck on it?
I just bought this router used and in working condition. I dl'd the install file from here and followed all the directions. When it gets to the plug router into wall portion, it just sits there and eventually says its hooked up wrong. However the wifi is already working (checked by logging into my kindle fire) as well as my second port which is hooked to my ps3. However my 1st port which is connected to the pc does nothing. I have swapped the cables with no luck. So I cant figure out why there is no communication between the router and my pc.
My dorms have wifi in the common room, and ethernet wall ports in the rooms since wifi doesnt reach that far. They both have the same network name (e.g. the wifi network is named 'apple', and when i connect through ethernet in my room the name is also 'apple') I need to have wifi in my room. So, if i get a router and connect it to the ethernet port in my room's wall, would that work? Is that all you have to do or is there some other stuff i should know about?also can i put a password on it? And also, will it carry the network traffic of the common room?(if two people are using the common room's wifi, will the wifi speed in my room be affected nd whatnot) i have a linksys router lying around at home (the blue one with the double antennas, everyones seen them, and the one in the common room is the same...wireless g)
anybody with 2 x rack mount kits for a SRW208P that they don't want? I need to rack mount these devices but my predecessor very wisely decided to throw them out and Cisco does not sell the racks as a separate SKU.
I need to install a AIR-AP1231G in one of our facilities. Its desired location is on a 1" thick solid steal wall filled with concrete. I thought maybe mounting it with a magnet would be easier than tap and die. Any reason I shouldn't use a high powered magnet to mount it with?
Any replacement bracket or some other way to easily mount the 942l in a window? i have a long window next to my front door i want to just stick this someone about shoulder high in that window looking right to the door so will see anyone who comes.
I'm trying to mount a network share from a Linksys NAS200 to Fedora 16.
The program I am trying to run won't accept network addresses to save to. I ran it without specifying the IP address of the server and it comes up with some random IP. I specified an IP and it can't find the device.
Here are the errors:
[root@HOME ~]# mount -t cifs -v //NAS_SERVER/public/ /mnt/ -o username=user,password=pass mount.cifs kernel mount options:
I have CAT5 cables run throughout my house to a few different jacks. They plug into my modem downstairs. I want to hook up my desktop internet through one of the wall jacks upstairs. The wall jack has CAT5 cable run to it but only accepts telephone wire sized jacks. How do I connect to the internet with this setup?
I haven't worked with Cisco devices before (yepp, another one of those) but I am getting there. I have replaced my silly Draytek router now with a Cisco877 and it works perfectly fine. But the whole networking side of things such as NAT / ROUTE / ACLs is a BIT black magic.
Basically my problem is that I cannot get proper traffic through the tunnel
From any station behind the Cisco (Site2) I can ping the local IP of the Sonic, but none of the other stations. From behind the Sonic I can ping any station behind the Cisco but unable to connect on any port (RDP for example)
Bear in mind that a lot of settings are from forums, google and the sorts because as I mentioned, before I got this one I have limited experience with Cisco .. Everything configured is working fine, the internet connection, the incoming pptp VPN to the Cisco etc., just not the IPSec VPN.
SO I am not a computer wiz... but I have this outlet in my upstairs wall which has a phone and Cat5e Jack. I would like to set up my wireless router up there but where does the modem go? there is no jack for the cable.
I have done similar with cat5e in the past, but only operating at 100mb/s. The gigabit stuff I have done so far has had the power in a separate stud cavity.My structured wiring project will be installed in one stud cavity in the soon to be new home office. Not exactly using a structured wiring cabinet, but rather using a 7u wall mount relay rack bracket. The cabling will be entering using 2 separate header penetrations. One existing just inside on the right side of the stud cavity carries 110V 12/2 romex to a stud attached box / recepticle. The other side gets the new penetration, a minimum of 12" away. That's the one that the ethernet cable will pass through. The cable runs will run through the wall and through a brush plate, and then to the patch panel.
The Cat6 cable is UTP, and is marked for in wall use. This is the stuff with the spline if that matters.The romex, by code MUST be attached to the stud, and it is, the cat6 on the other hand is allowed to be loose in the wall. I do not plan on having enough slack in the wall for the cat6 to ever get closer than 8" from the romex, and no closer than 10" from the electrical box.Is that separation sufficient to avoid inductive noise on the ethernet cables? Like I said, I have done similar with Cat5e and no problems ever, but only attached to 10/100 networks. I can change stud cavities, but would rather stick with the one so that my ethernet, and power both can enter the rack cleanly.
the internet is so poor I usually lose the signal, since it has to go through walls and a bunch of trees. My question is can I use the phone jacks in the wall to set up a second router or something to increase it. Or what is the best way to increase the power and strength. What do I need and how do I do it. My fathers router is under verizon vios. I plan on getting and xbox 360 with live capability and need good internet for that
I have a side gig that I do some work for and they've had a Sonicwall TZ200 device in their branch office and also in their data center that has a site to site VPN connection between the two devices. About a month ago the bandwidth throughput got severly decreased. They went from getting about 28Mbps/27Mbps to now ~3Mbps/12Mbps.
I've spent days troubleshooting with Sonicwall which could be a whole dedicated thread on it's own but I digress. I even had the ISP come out and test the line and when they hooked up their own laptop it got the speeds it should be getting. I've rebuilt the config on the sonicwall from scratch which was a major pain in the ass because I'm not a firewall guy by any means. After firmware updates and pulling my hair out I've decided to dump the tz200, to what I don't know. I need two devices, one for the data center and one for the branch office. I'm pretty sure something in the config is causing this and after being escalated to the highest level at sonicwall and them sending me a replacement unit which I rebuilt the config on and also tried to import the old settings with no luck. I very well could have done something or made a change to cause this but I'm at a loss and willing to try another product.
I get spammed from Barracuda all the time, do they have quality devices? Something with a web interface would be great since I'm not a firewall guru by any means and had set up a bunch of address objects with NATs and all that.
I'm wiring up the house with CAT6 (I've never done this before). Someone told me to use 'T568B' termination. Every configuration I see on net looks different, and I'm getting confused.
The jacks have double colour coding for each wire as pictured here:I take it 'A' is for T568A, and 'B' is for T568B?So this is how I should arrange the wires for T568B:
Have a Sonicwall with multiple VLANS on LAN interface going to the SG-300 in Layer 3 mode.Trunk Port has VLAN 1 untagged and PVID and other VLANS (20,30,40) tagged.Setting a port to Access for particular VLAN (40) does not pull DHCP from Sonicwall.Sonicwall support says DHCP request is coming from VLAN1 and something wrong in switch setup.Setting 2 ports to VLAN 40 allows communication between the two.Also, replacing SG300 with a Netgear L2 works.Seems like an issue with the trunk, no?
WE've been using the Asoka pluglink adapters we received from at&t and they worked very well to where we can move them anywhere in the house. Now they've just stopped working all together. We didn't change anything to where they stopped working. But the weirdest part: they just started working again yesterday and now are not. I did not influence any of these changes and I'm not sure where the problem is. I've tried swapping out the adapters cause we have three and we only use two at a time. Our current setup is a linksys wrt54g with ddwrt which is what we plug one of the adapters to and the other is in my room cause we are out of range for wireless. When testing the network it says we join an unidentified network but have no internet access.
My internet (via wifi) works just fine. But here is the situation that has me baffled-I have a house that has ethernet wired ports in each room, then there is a central hub in my closet. In the hub, I have a grey ethernet cord that is labeled 'service'. This service wire connects to a board that features 12 ethernet ports, 1 of which says 'in', 1 says 'security interface' and has a little nub in it, and the other 10 are not labeled. The grey wire is in the 'in' port.So I am left with 10 ports- port 3 of 10 has a (phone cord size) cord in it, connecting into the 'line' port on my Qwest modem/router. (Qwest set this all up for me, by the way). The modem/router is obviously plugged into the wall. Now- remaining loose in the hub are 9 ethernet cords- 5 blue, 4 green. Each one of these is written on in sharpie, and has a room label on it. 'Family, living room, kitchen, etc...'. So, pretty obvious, I simply found which cord corresponds to the room I am trying to use (family GREEN is one, family BLUE is another). These 2 wires correspond to the top port, and bottom port of a switch plate that is in my family room. Now- inside the closet hub I plugged family GREEN and family BLUE into the back of the ROUTER, ports 1 and 2 (of 4 available). Now- I went back to the wall- connected ethernet wires into the wall plate and then into the ethernet devices I am trying to use (slingbox and directv dvr). Neither are working.
If I go to setup menu on dvr it says it cannot find a network, not getting an ip address. is that the slingbox red lights are both solid (which means there is a connection), and if I go back to the router ETH1 and ETH2 are lit up on the front, again implying that I have a valid connection. This isn't rocket science, but I must be doing something wrong. Are the family GREEN and family BLUE supposed to go into any of the 9 remaining ports that are open inside the closet hub? Because my thought was- let's say hypothetically I wanted to use every available wall jack in my house. There are 9 wall jacks total, but there are only 4 ports on the router. So this would not work. But, there are 9 ethernet ports open on the board in the closet. So I must need to use the ports in the closet, NOT on the router? If so, are these closet ports specific? Because (remember I have a phone like cord coming out of port 3, going into the 'line' port on my router/modem) I took this phone like cord out of port 3, plugged into port 4. and 5, and 6, 7, etc... and none of them would allow my wifi to work- the INT light goes off on the modem/router at that point. But when I plugged back into port 3 (where Qwest originally put it), INT lit back up and wifi worked again. So this makes me think that these 10 (9 remaining) ports are specific somehow? I know this was a lot to read. End result I am looking for- continue to use my wifi on the computer (the ONE place in my house there is no wall jack lol), and connect my slingbox and my directv dvr to the wall jack in my family room so I can (have slingbox) and get On-Demand content for directv.
I have a problem concerning my Netgear XET1001 85 MBit/s Wall-Plugged Ethernet Adapter. My personal computer in my room is connected directly to our router and I'm getting arround 14-15Mbps download speeds. My parents computer is located in a different room and I bought them the Netgear Adapter thinking this was the most effective and simplest solution. Better than a Wifi-Adapter. I cost me quite a lot too to be honest. The problem is my parents are getting speeds of 0.05Mbps and the browser often doesn't even load the pages completely. To me it seems like the data can only travel through the thing very hardly if at all.
We thought this might have to do with the age and RAM of our computer. (512MB of RAM) So we bought a new one a couple of days ago. Turns out: nothing has changed.
The Wall-Pluggs are connected directly to the outlet by the way. I'm trying to give you the most amount of information I can think of so one more thing might be important. Yesterday I brought my parent's PC into my room, connected it to the Wall-Plugg and got speeds of 5Mbps. Although this is better, it's not what I bought this thing for. Even a WIFI connection would be faster would'nt it?
I pay for a 50mb service and reguarly check the download speed I was getting. I would always get between 45-50mb. However I went on holiday for a few days, and so I turned all the plugs off at the wall(something I never do) and since I got home im getting speed of around 20-25mb. I called the engineer out but he wasnt able to do anything because when he connected it to his laptop, he was getting speeds of 47mb. He said he didnt know why i was getting such a slow speed through my desktop, just said it must have something to do with my computer.