D-Link DIR-655 :: Signal Fluctuations With No Source Of Interference?
Mar 5, 2012
So I use Shaw as my ISP, with the dlink DIR-655 as my router.Originally I was using the DPC3825, and started noticing some nasty signal fluctuations on my phone and wii (would go from 5 bars to 1 bar, causing netflix to drop out, games to disconnect, phone browsing to stop completely, etc) which is why I bought the DIR-655. I have been looking for sources of RF interference.I do not own a microwave, all the electrical work in this house is brand new, I have no neighbors (live in middle of a forest). I have tried positioning, every wifi channel, building an aluminum satellite dish to direct the signal where I want it to go. I've had it in every room in the house, I've unplugged the fridge and all other RF electronics (cordless phones, etc), and the issue remains.
So what the heck is going on here? Does my house hate wifi signals?I was thinking maybe dirty power, but my house has emergency power batteries that run 24/7. Any dropouts or flickers aren't even noticed by the system. url...This is a picture of the path between the router and my roku box/wii/phone.The router is 1 inch below the camera screen, and the roku box is in the far room. it's 30 feet.what can cause severe fluctuations at 30ft?
Just today i've started having problems with my Wireless Network. Other adapters in my area are causing me to get random disconnects every few minutes.I've tried changing the channel on my router several times, but to no avail. Is there anything else worth trying?
I have recently bought a wireless N 150 usb Dlink adapter, i have installed the software and have conected it to my router using WPS (I do not know the passphrase). The adapter is working excellent but when I added the adapter, my old SSID (Dlink) got switched to Dlinkelb7. Dlinkelb7 has full bars when the old Dlink only comes up so often with one bar. Since the switch of Dlink to Dlinkelb7 my xbox 360 adapter has a very hard time connecting to Dlink and it will not connect to Dlinkelb7 because it needs a passphrase. My router is also Dlink Model DIR-615.
My laptops wifi speed drops from 54Mbps down to 1Mbps which is often causing me to disconnect from web application etc I am currently using a usb wifi dongle and the speed does not drop from 54Mbps which has made me believe the problem lies with the laptops internal wifi settings, after re installing my internal wifi's driver to a more recent version the problem is still the same, I am using a lenovo t61 laptop and my wirless router is a D-LINK DSL-240R, how to fix my internal wifi so that its speed is a constant 54Mbps as my 2 other laptops and notebooks are all at 54Mbps, because of this I believe this is an isolated problem.
I currently use a Linksys E3200 and mainly direct connect it to my laptop. My current ISP is with Insightbb to which I use their 20.0 (20 Mbps) service. For the past 6 or 7 months I've had little to no issues with my internet connection until about a week ago. While directly connected to the E3200 I used to get up to about 20/21 Mbps at a constant rate. Yet now I'm lucky to get up to 13/14 Mbps. Also, the speed will sometimes fluctuate; shooting to as low as 8 Mbps and shooting as high as15 Mbps. I can verify that my ISP is not the issue. I've directly connected my laptop to the modem with success and received a healthy speed of up to 23 Mbps with no fluctuations. The problem only occurs once I directly connect to the router. Attempting to connect wirelessly shows the same, if not worse, problems.
I've attempted numerous factory resets and used the 30:30:30 method to no avail. I've tried power cycling the modem, router and laptop. I've tried disconnecting the router for up to 10 minutes. I've upgraded the firmware to the most recent update. I've tried setting a static IP. I've tried imputing the MTU manually. I've tried setting a MAC address clone. I've tried turning on/off UPnP. I've tried release/renewing my IP address. I've tried flushing my DNS. All of which I power cycled the router after each and every attempt.
I need to block incoming traffic with Dlink DIR 600. I know how to create the rule source (WAN) to destination (LAN) to deny all protocols. But what IP will I put in WAN? IP address of my Internet? Or how can I enter the ALL IP range in source...format for the IP (it's not 0.0.0.0).
I want to do this because in the DIR log section I'm being PING Flooded. I already un-check "Enable WAN Ping Response" but still receiving the message.
Basically, I cannot connect to any game servers when I am connected through this router. I used my Android to tether into 3G internet and was able to connect without any issues so it's not OS-side at all. I've tried many settings arbitrarily one at a time, checking each time to no avail. Is there a particular setting that is screwing with this game? I've got the ports (27000-27100 TCP/UDP) forwarded and I've used a Port Checker tool to verify that they are open. Obviously it's something in the router that is blocking the connection..but what else is there to try?
We're getting complaints about a specific 1131AG in the field only being intermittently accessible. WCS shows both the a and b/g interfaces randomly bouncing, sometimes the reason for the bounce is unknown other times it says it's because it lost connection to the controller. I can ssh into the WCS but the engineer who setup the AP's doesn't seem to have enabled remote access via telnet or ssh.
We are also seeing these events:
802.11a interface of AP * is down: Controller 172.17.0.10 Reason: Max retransmissions for the AP have reached.Interference threshold violation reported by '802.11b/g' interface of AP *, connected to Controller '172.17.0.10'.I know I can adjust the threshold percentage, but that would only seem to mask the issue.WCS gives this version info on the AP:
Versions <DIV style="DISPLAY: block" id=versions mcestyle="display: block;"> Software Version 6.0.202.0 Boot Version 12.3.8.0
I have Wireless-G 2.4ghz 54Mbps (Linksys WRT54G) working perfectly short range. But have no connection when I'm in room about 80 ft from router and have doors to rooms closed. Partitions in home are concrete block, not sheetrock. Should I get a new N router? Is there a repeater or booster that will do the job? Or connect existing router to new router in other room with ethernet cable going outside then over roof of house then inside to room?
I have a Cisco AP1142 Standalone AP at two of my locations. However both of these are being rendered useless every night and require a reeboot to correct the issue, because of the high level of noise and vibrations coming from the extremly loud bands that play there, Someone sugested an enclosure stuffed with insulation but Im afriad of overheating the AP.
We have a small ofice in the 3rd floor of a building and we are using 2 access points Aironet 1130 URL
Since some time now the space has become really crowded with access points. 1 AP is on channel 5 and is almost unusable. The 2nd one on channel 11 has some APs to fight with and with smaller signall strenght.
I have been researching and read a bit about changing some access point parameters (RTS/CTS/timers) on a multi access point environment. I want to do that while waiting for 5GHz AP's (and because not all clients support 5GHz).
my wap54g is not working even i hold reset butoon for 60 second it not woring even my linksys wap54g reset button is not work for reset it, It not do any thing and still i cant accest is web interference
Over the past few months I've noticed that, although my USB adapter picks up a good signal from the router (never less than 65 - 70% signal strength) and stays connected to it I am at times unable to access any websites. It started off happening once or twice a week and could happen for about 5 - 10 minutes at a time but now happens several times a day and can stop me accessing the web even though the USB adapter says that it is still picking up the signal from the router. After a period of time it will just start working again, I don't have to restart the router or anything.I've tried changing the channel to a few different ones after using a utility to see what my neighbours were using but this hasn't made a difference. I'm using a Netgear RangeMax Dual Band Wireless-N USB Adapter. It has the N technology so should work pretty well.The current firmware version is 1.00VG dated 5th May 2009. In the router settings it allows you to search for an update for the firmware however it told me that my current version is the most up to date.
I have my DIR-655 router set up on the first floor because my son's tricked out gaming rig is in the basement while our office is on the 2nd floor. On the router, I tweaked settings to give him priority speed when he is gaming. Although he complains about his speeds and connectivity. In our 2nd floor office -- which is one floor and 30 ft through a wall away -- my signal strength varies from 45% to 70%. There are times when neighbor's networks show greater strength than mine does. I live in a house so the physical distance is much greater plus there are two exterior walls, no matter where their router is placed. The adapter in the office computer is a D-Link DWA-556.
My question has to do with the low signal strength of my dir-655. I have it set up in the second bedroom of my apartment. When I am sitting in my living room (about 30 feet away) it's really hard to pull in a signal of more than one bar on my phone, or two bars on my wife's kindle fire and will often drop the signal all together. But, if I search for networks, tons of other routers come up with excellent signal strength from our neighbors. Is there something I need to know about expanding the signal strength?
I took my router with me to visit family at Christmas. It wouldn't allow the wired computer through the switch, but yet I could talk to the router with my laptop. Rather than reconfigure, I bundled up my router & laptop and let well enough alone.Now that they're all back at my house, I can't reliably get the laptop to connect - Low Wireless Signal error. I've reset the modem & router repeatedly. Tried Channels 1,6, 11 and 8&9 too. n only, as that's my laptop's. On 2 occasions it has connected, rebooted and auto connected and run for 4-5 hours. Then it's gone. I've beat this mess for 3-8 hours per day, for days...!!!Laptop(Vista) connects to every other wifi I've tried. It's sitting 4 ft from the router.
misc. info. separate dsl modem, Centurytel, Netopia Cayman 3300 series no other devices beyond wired desktop and laptop no changes in other neighboring networks
I recently purchased the dir-632 and am having trouble getting my Apple Powerbook G4 to join the airport network. I get this message, you may have entered an incorrect password, (I know that I have not), network name (I know this is correct), chosen the wrong type of wireless security (here I think is my problem) or may be out of range of the base station, (impossible as I am 10 feet away, and my PC's all work in the same range).
-My settings are DHCP client -cable status Connected -network status connected -801.11 mode 11bgn
I get a good strong signal from the airport but get a status connected to network and getting status message at the bottom, but the signal changes to not associated with any network every 30 seconds or so. this just cycles between the two messages. the signal does not maintain a connection.
I have a D-link DIR-655. Which that along side with my modem is located downstairs. The upstairs living room has a crappy signal where loading videos becomes painfully slow. Awhile ago, I just tried to relocate my router upstairs and just drill a hole for a CAT cable to slip through to the modem downstairs from my room(as my room is directly above the router)...3 useless holes later, for whatever reason it is impossible to drill through. What are my other solutions?
I'm using Windows 7 with a TP Link router and an RCA cable modem. I only have a laptop and I had it set up so I had wireless on it, and was able to get wireless on my smartphone as well. All of a sudden the wireless stopped working and now I can only connect to the internet with the router plugged in to my laptop. I just updated my wireless driver and have tried the 192.168.0.1 thing so many times and nothing seems to work. I also exchanged my router for a new one and that worked for about a week and then stopped working again. This happened once before and it didn't work for a couple days and then I woke up one morning and it worked again.
I bought TP-link wireless repeaters which i have failed trying to setup to an eircom zyxel dsl modem (ISP provided modem)i set it up as a universal repeater and had it auto latch on to the eircom modem but it just doesnt seem to boost the signal.i have turned all encryption and this doesnt work either. I have setup this situation using a netgear dsl modem and a netgear wireless router which if i remember i made a mac bridge, and it works great..am i wasting my time trying to get a TP-link talking to a cheap isp modem? i was reading an article somebody wrote that was doing the same thing yet the modem wasnt the same as mine, they said they got it working using WDS...and that the tp-link doesnt know about WDS and you need to use telnet to change settings on the tp-link looked a real hassle anyway.
I have tested each antenna separately. With each antenna attached one at a time the left and right antenna is giving me -20 signal. The center is only giving me -65 signal. Is this a problem with the router or normal? I noticed that the center pin is pushed in more then the left and right. Don't know if that is the cause.
Ok, some time this week the strength of my wireless signal has been greatly degraded. I have not had any problems connecting to the router in the past at any location in my house. Now if I am 20 feet away I barely have 1 bar of signal.
I have tried changing channels, and rebooting the router. It has not improved.
I bought a DIR-655 (F/W v. 2.00NA) about 6 months ago. It worked well until a couple of weeks ago. Then it started to stop broadcasting WIFI signal without apparent reason. When it did so, I could still connect to it and internet with wired connection, but the WIFI scan does not show my SSID. If I reboot it (either through the admin interface, or just disconnect and reconnect the power), I would be able to reconnect to WIFI, but then WIFI will stop working again in about 8-10 hours. I am rebooting this thing 2-3 times a days and it is very frustrating. Curiously, I borrowed a N300 router to try out
For some reason my router does not give internet but my laptop is still connected via lan wireless. This would be a problem for me because i always leave my laptop connected in the web at night
just bought the DIr655 two weeks, everthing was fine except the wireless.almost every day around 6pm the wireless signal are disappear but the internet connection was fine with Lan, and i have to reboot the rounter inorder to get the signal back. i tried update the firmware but it it newest firmware on my rounter.
I am still trying to get the DAP-1522 to perform well together with the DIR-855, but so far I think the DAP-1522 is a piece.When setting up the DAP-1522 in bridge mode I get stunning 5% signal on the 5 GHz band and 65% on the 2.4 GHz band. Speed is for both bands under 20 Mbps.At the same time, a laptop from Asus gets 100% signal and 130 Mbps right away.I am VERY disappointed with the DAP-1522. Save your money and the hazzle.
Region : India Model : TL-MR3220 Hardware Version : V2 Firmware Version : ISP : Reliance Net Connect
I called Customer Care and confirmed that MR3220 supports ZTE AC2738 Model even though it is not there in Compatible list. But when i actually configured- It is showing as Modem Identified but signal strenth is showing Zero.
I have connected my DIR-825 to my cable modem through the network ports and completed the configuration. Everything works fine, I am able to connect through wireless to the DIR-825 and access the internet. I had to do this as my cable modem is also wireless and does not allow another router to be connected through the internet connection, but I want to get a better signal stength than the cable modem.When I am not wireless connected, I can see the two bands at full strength in the view available wireless networks screen. As soon as I connect to either the 2.4 channel or the 5 channel, the signal strenth of the channel I'm connected to drops to horrible, while the non-connected one still shows at full strength.i tried disabling one of the channels, but as soon as I connect to the other, that channels signal strength still drops to horrible.
I bought this router (DIR-655) some time earlier this year, so it hasn't even been half a year that I've owned the thing. I set it up in the small duplex I was sharing with my sister and it worked quite well. Actually... for the first 45 minutes I was freaking out because I was getting practically no signal, then I realized I had forgotten to screw in the antennas... but that little anecdote aside, it worked fine.
I've since moved into a new place. I got a new modem, still on Videotron, I just upped the speed from 7 MB/sec to 15 MB/sec. Before setting up the router I inserted the CD that came with it and followed the instructions therein... things seemed fine, except that he automatically used the same network name that I used at my last place... almost like he was stuck on it. I couldn't figure out how to create a fresh new network. But I shrugged it off and continued, entering my own password and everything else.
Now, at the end he gave me 4 pieces of information,
A router password. A network name (SSID), this is the one who's name was stuck to the old one. A network security type, I went for Most secure(WPA) And the network security key, this was a randomly generated alphanumeric code of some sort.
I copied this in two different ways and the installation wizard automatically saved me a copy onto the desktop, so I know for certain I got the passwords right. I pulled out my iPad later, saw the network, a good strong signal, and tried to connect except it's not accepting my password. The password I triple-saved and checked without a shadow of a doubt. On a whim I tried to use the Security Key, and that seemed to connect for some reason, but it is considerably slower than it was at my last place.
The modem isn't to blame (it's running on double the speed now) and the signal strength is good. It's just that something gone weird with the password, and it feels very slow. Even if it wasn't slow, I would really like to know why none of my wifi devices are accepting the password I assigned.
And I used that http://192.168.0.1/ trick to look into the router settings from my computer. I changed the network password into something new. And still none of the devices will connect, they keep telling me it's the wrong password. I am only able to connect through the Security Key and I don't like that! I tried to contact D-Link's technical support the other day, but it drew on for so long my cellphone actually ran out of minutes.
Short Version: None of my wifi devices are accepting the password I gave during the setup and I don't know why!
I'm running a 64-bit Windows 7 on 1-year old dual-core desktop computer.
I have been having wireless issues for a while now and decided to buy a TP-Link router to work with this, unfortunately the wrong model was sent out, it's for Cable use only as it is just a router not modem too!I attempted to send it back but as I didn't know it was wrong until I opened it they won't take it back now as I should have checked first apparently.I did some research online and found information that I can use it as my wireless transmitter as long as I use my SKY router as the modem (with it's wireless function switched off).I have attempted the set-up as described in the manual for the TP-Link and I am now speaking to you using the Ethernet port on it, yet none of my wireless devices can see it in the available networks, both the "system" and "WLAN" lights are flashing to say the router is working but I still have no wireless signal.
I have D-Link Amplifi N+600 Dual Band wireless router (Model: DIR-827) that was purchased a couple of months ago. I live in a house with a bunch of other university students so I would estimate we have about 18 devices that connect to the router such as laptops, mobile phones, and gaming systems. Every few hours our wireless router will just stop working and drop everyone's connection including the connection to the wired Ethernet ports. The light which is normally green on the front of the router turns yellow and will stay that way until the router is reset. The network still shows up on all the devices with full signal bars but no access.
Even though I put high gain antennas on my routers which extended the range of good signal immensely, I wish to try to get even better signal strength also. When using manual configuration mode on the router, I have set the WiFi power level to 100% (default level). Is there a way to increase that level beyond 100% and "overdrive" the signal? I tried to input a number >100% and that was not accepted.
I know this is possible if I go to dd-wrt, and possibly with open-wrt, which I prefer not to do for various reasons, not the least of which is that I have both a Rev. A1 and a Rev. B1 router (Rev. A1 is not supposed to support dd-wrt). I also know that increasing the power will make the router run hotter. I am willing to risk it as I monitor the temperature regularly.
Has anyone ever tried to do this or, have the people who want this just gone to dd-wrt? From the dd-wrt forum it appears that the DIR-825 router in Rev. B1 is not very user friendly to dd-wrt. After 3 years the code is still flaky. I would prefer not to use it, if possible.
I have a DIR-825 in my basement at one end of the house and it works great. My problem is the signal strength is a little weak on the main floor at the other end of the house. I would like to add a second access point to cover that end of the house. Do I need to get another DIR-825 and wire it to the original or is there another option? I obviously don't need all the features of the DIR-825 for the 2nd AP, but I cant find a less expensive option that will still allow me to use both bands.
