I need to upgrade my switch to something that has 24 ports. This is for home, simply to sling media around the house, etc. So 3-4 computers, boxes, AVR's, HTPC's, blah blah blah - just the usual stuff.
I was looking at the Trendnet TED-S24DG and the Netgear JGS524 (both are under a couple of hundred bucks). The cheaper the better to a degree - rack mount is preferrable. Both are unmanaged. Jumbo frames?
I need to buy a new router for my network (using DIR-655 for last 4-5 yrs). Would like to move to a dual band product.As I live in Canada and would like to purchase VPN to rid the geo tagging and enjoy US media content. I plan to buy a wifi router that supports VPN to accomplish my goal.
So, from modem, to router, then to a 24GB port switch, devices include 3 wired computers, tvs, boxes, players, blah blah blah, etc.
Placement of the router is in my basement (has to be as this is where all my network/modem/server rack). I plan to also purchase an AP and place it on the 2nd floor of my home (2200sq ft) for coverage in the house.
Question is, once I add the VPN to get US content, there will be times when I want my own PC to NOT be on the US VPN.So, based on the above which dual band router under $130 and how much for the AP? And how do I setup it up so that my personal PC and be on and off the VPN?
Right now I can get a E4200v2 refurb for 60 bucks from NC$X? I was looking at Asus N66, but perhaps its too much for my needs?
we have 100 Cisco 881 routers in our network and they all work fine to Linksys, 3Com, etc switches. The problem we have encountered is interfacing to Netgear switches. Netgear switches use autosensing on their ports and it does not seem to be compatible with MDIX autosensing on the Cisco 881 4 port LAN hub that is standard on the 881 router. Would a cross over cable resolve the problem? Since both run autosensing MDIX they never synch - so likely a cross over would not do much. I see this with all types of Netgear smartswitches. If you put a small switch between the Netgear switch and the 881 Cisco router everything works fine except for getting port 9000 traffic through.
I have just installed a Linksys SLM2024 switch in my house and it - along with my Netgear CVG 824g router - delivers internet access to around 20 devices requiring IP's.
My problem is: The Netgear router can only assign IP adresses in the 192.168.0.XXX range. which means I cannot access the Linksys SLM2024's online configuration page which is located at 192.168.1.254. Are there any way to force the Linksys switch into having an IP in the 192.168.0.XXX range? I could try and connect only my laptop, the switch and an old router I have in a network and letting the DHCP server in the old router give my switch the correct IP.
So I am contemplating the setup for the network in my new home, how to connect 24+ ethernet ports in the house to a single network. I was thinking of getting a nice dual-band wireless router, but those usually only come with 4 or so lan ports. How would I then utilize a large 24- or 48-port switch to connect everything to the router?
I've been looking at picking up a 16-24 port gigabit switch that supports trunking, vlans etc. for home use.
I've looked at the Cisco SG2/300's, HP 1810g-24 and the Dell 2816 and 2824 switches, and it seems like the Cisco's are the best buy (layer 3'ish features, same price as the HP) but there isn't much about them.
is it possible to connect the wan port of a cable modem to a lan port of the home network? the reason is, i need some wifi access and more ports to my wired network, and the most reasonable solution would be a cable modem router with wifi and 4 ports just plugged into one of my routers.
I want to create a Counter Strike Server and need to open some ports for that.The Problem: I cannot seem to open the ports for gaming.The Modem Setup: My Firewall is disabled.My guess is that, this is the area with the problem. I guess my modem is not forwarding onwards.The Problem: I tried checking my ports with websites like URL etc.It cannot access my port.
I have a Netgear DGN2200 and a BT Home Hub V1 and wish to use my Netgear as the WBS and the Home Hub as a repeater. I have set both up, and the Home Hub finds the Netgear and recognises it as a WBS (I think) but cannot get internet through my Homehub at all.
I have a Time Warner Cable business class service with no static IP, with a wireless modem which is plugged to a CAT5 distribution panel. On the jacks (2 other rooms on the house) I have a Linksys E3000 and a Linksys Valet router for signal boost and gadgets usage (TV, cameras, etc).The main router (TWC) has it's own external IP which TWC assigns to me and internally distributes via DHCP the range 192.168.0.x. With that said:
- The E3000 has a 192.168.0.6 IP -- this is fixed setup on the TWC router (ubee brand) by MAC address - The Valet has a 192.168.0.7 IP -- this is fixed setup on the TWC router (ubee brand) by MAC address - The main router has the 192.168.0.1 as the gateway and web-interface
Whenever I connect something to the E3000, it is distributing the 192.168.1.x range and the valet 192.168.2.x range.That works perfectly for my home based business until I decided to use more stuff on the network such as a IP printer, IP cameras, etc.
- The IP cameras are connected to the E3000 due to signal strength and I have manually assigned them the 192.168.1.15 and 192.168.1.16 IPs and ports 9001 and 9002.
- The printer is connected to the E3000 and I have manually assigned the IP 192.168.1.30.
Issue 1: Port forwarding On the main router (TWC - UBEE) I have tried to setup a port forwarding by informing the Local IP as 192.168.0.6 (E3000 IP), Internal Port 0, Public Interface IP (0.0.0.0), Ext Start Port 9001, Ext End Port 9001, Protocol - Both, Enabled Yes. On the E3000 I did the same config (screen shot attached e3000.png).This is not working properly. I can't get into the camera.
Issue 2: Printer/ The printer is only accessible if I connect to the E3000 (because it is on the 192.168.1.x network)
Issue 3: How to configure all the devices on the same subnet? If I want everyone to be on the 192.168.0.x network, how to configure properly the E3000 and the Valet? I have tried to force them into the same network but it would not work properly. It would not get an IP from the UBEE router (main).
I am using the WNR200v2 for wireless and with a powerline adapter where should I set my speeds, 54Mbps, 145Mpbs or 300Mbps? Are there any other settings I should changeI have a road runner cable modem with 10Mbps download. I am streaming wireless to a PS3 slim 160gb, WDTV LIVE HD media streamer and a Directv HR24-500 DVR. I am using a powerline adapter kit to stream to a Boxee Box another media streamer. Most of my streaming is from the internet but, I occasionally will download something and then stream it from my HDD to one of my media streamers. My wireless signal only needs to travel about 30 ft. and the same for the powerline adapter
We are getting browser redirects on our Netgear home network. It's happening on 3 computers (2 LAN, 1 wireless) and on a cell phone. Have scanned the computers with AVG, Malwarebytes and Super Antispyware.I have to believe it's in the router
I want to wire the house for Cat6, the current home we live in I had ATT Uverse installed (but I hated it and now with the bandwidth caps I would pass regardless) and they installed Cat5e. I love having a hardwired internet connection in each room so the new place needs to have this done.
-Professional Networking Tool Kit (I was going to buy the stripper/crimper/punch tool but I thought the testing tool would be nice to have) -1000ft Bulk Solid Cat6 cable 24AWG -Cat6 Punch down Keystone Jack
Then just zip ties for cable management, cat6 solid plugs + inserts, two hole wall plates and black relief boots. I already have a Netgear GS108 that I'll be bringing with me, if that ends up not being big enough I will just buy a bigger one in the future. I'm planning on running two cables to each room of the house for a total of 12 cables (not all of them will be hooked up, I plan to make sure to label each one at the central location where I'll be keeping the cable modem and switch. Each bedroom will only currently use one port with the spare bedroom not using any but when I'm running cables I'm going to run them all for future proofing our new home. I was thinking of putting the wireless router I have in the living room as if any place will need more than two ports it will be the living room (Receivers, TVs, Bluray players, DirecTV boxes will all end up using RJ45 as I upgrade them).
I've decided I want to hard wire all my stuff in our family room; however, the modem and router are upstairs in my office. I've got a few options available and wanted to get some opinions from those who have tried any of them. Here are my three options:
1) Install NETGEAR MCAB1001 MoCA Coax-Ethernet Adapter Kits 2) Install Monster PowerNet 300 Power Line Network Modules 3) Run the Ethernet cables through the wall, under carpet, etc.
I'm primarily looking for info about the speed differences, ease of troubleshooting, etc.
I currently have a NetGear WNR3500L running Tomato acting as an access point. Unfortunately, I think it's crapping out on me... Currently, there are two WiFi security cameras streaming through it to a surveillance server 24/7, and even though it is in a central location in my condo, I get shit signal ~25 feet away (and that's after cranking up the wifi radio to 60mw).
802.11n is a must, and dual SSID's would be nice too... dual band would be totally awesome but not that necessary (I still have some legacy hardware running on G...).
is it possible to assign a loopback address to a typical switch port on a 2950 switch? I want to be able to have some devices connected to a switch to test access lists and VLANs.
On the supervisor card of a cisco 6500 series, according to the following link, [URL] it only has 2 uplink ports on the card. Would I be correct in assuming that I only have those to ports that I can configure IP addresses on?
The cisco that is being devlivere is coming with a 48 port switch and 24 port fibre switch. Could I change any of those ports into a router port and configure IP addresses on those?
The supervisor card is a ws-sup-720-3b the 48 port switch is a ws-x6748-ge-tx the 24 port fibre switch is ws-x6724-sfp
I'm fairly new to Cisco products am in the process of developing my network knowledge on a deeper level. I have a 3825 with a HWIC-4ESW and I'm struggling to fully understand how the two "see" each other. I've setup a V LAN with a layer 3 address on the HWIC and added the switch ports to it. This seemed to allow devices connected to the switch ports to talk to the built-in router ports. I thought this was all making sense until i applied an access-list to the router port. It's a simple ACL i'm just using for testing and the only thing it does is blocks telnet from anywhere. I know the ACL is setup properly because if I connect a device directly to the router port i cannot telnet to the port. However, if i connect a device to one of the switch ports, i am able to telnet to the router port successfully.
It seems that I'm missing something with how traffic flows from the switch port to the router ports and how the two "see" each other.
I was looking for a way to connect an AUX port from a 1700 router to a 6500 switch module console port, to see the output of the Switch's on the 1700 router, in case there is a network downtime, I could see what's going on in the switch, what cable should I use ? Also, is there is any kind of documentation for this type of config what have I seen is very few info.
I just installed a Netgear WiFi extender. In order to set all the preferences, it wants a password and login and I have no idea what that is. I tried everything I could think of, but no go. how to reset the pw and figure out what my login is? Have had no response that addresses this problem. I am using Win 7 and I have an ARRIS cable modem. I've already gone thru the users guide with a fine tooth comb and have found nothing. I have been using WiFi on Netgear equipment for years, so it's not a new network. I also tried the login=admin and password=password and that didn't work.
I've been replacing my Netgear WNDR3700 (currently only serving as wired router and gigabit switch) with an Untangle box.Obviously, only the free "Lite" version would be worth it, as the others are priced ridiculously for non business use. I've had a hard time figuring out from their webpage how the features of the "Lite" compare to the others, particularly how Spam Blocker Lite, Web Filter Lite and Virus Blocker Lite compare to the full versions of each.
Is the untangle router any good? How do its management features compare with consumer solutions?The new web caching feature seems really cool too, especially when multiple systems grab the same large updates or download the same steam games, but at $54/year it seems a bit excessively priced for home use, so I'd probably just be sticking with the base free version.
I just moved into a house that has pre-wired CAT5 (Maybe 6) in every room. Its all connected by two Netgear FS116 switches in the attic.
According to my landlord I should just have to plug in my modem into any ethernet port, and internet will be present at every jack.
I've plugged into several of wall jacks and none of them seem to work. Sometimes for a random reason they will work, but the connectivity is so poor that I can't even load webpages. Connecting direct to the modem I receive excellent download speeds.
I am not 100% the cabling is correct, and don't know of any way to test if they are good besides plugging in my modem, and then seeing if my computer gets connectivity.
Is there some easy way I can troubleshoot this? Am I missing something major that I need to accomplish? Like go into the switch and change settings?
Looking for the most efficient setup of my home network. I recently bought the netgear 3700 and it has been great. I also have a trendnet green 8 port giga switch. Both of these will be located in my equipment closet.
I also have an ooma voip hub. before i did the router upgrade i had modem>ooma hub>router. Mainly had it that way since the previous router was a wrg614 and i thought the hub probably had better qos routing. I now have the 3700 infront since i think it does that. I need to learn how to setup the qos though. Problem is that having the hub after the router loses one of my 11 ports (i have pleanty now).
Will speed through the switch be as fast as straight from the router? should my netflix devices connect directly to the router or does any of this matter. [code]
We operate a home office network (workgroup) of 6 older PCs running Windows XP SP3.It's a Windows based network using a designated "home" PC as a server, and until recently we were using ethernet cables and a hub/switch for sharing files which worked well because we only share small document files, no music or video.The workgroup does not have a shared internet connection, we don't want or need one for what we do, although the individual PC's can connect to the web using USB dongles just for checking e-mail.Recently the ethernet hub died and I decided to take the opportunity to upgrade to wireless file sharing.None of the PCs have inbuilt wireless adapters so I bought a D-Link USB wireless adapter for each PC.I also bought a Netgear N300 router, thinking that this was suitable entry level equipment for wireless file sharing. Now I'm not so sure.So far I was unable to install the router on the "home" PC because the installation CD seems to assume that the router will be used for sharing an internet connection and does not seem to offer an installation option without a standalone modem. How to install this type of router to create a closed home wireless network without a shared internet connection.
I have two netgear wireless modem / router. I want to connect my internet, NAS and Media player on one device (netgear modem/router) and want to link the other netgear in my bedroom and connect another media player and also use the internet via primary netgear modem/router wireless connectivity.
I want to connect a Netgear FS605 directly to my ADSL router.However I find that this does not work unless I put my Netgear EN2005 Hub in between the Switch and the Router.The Hub is 10Mb/sec the switch 100Mb/s so I would like to eliminate the hub.
when I try to connect a laptop to the wi fi it won't connect because the connection has changed from home network to public and sometimes unidentified network . I can get it connected by momentarily unplugging the router and rebooting it , then pressing connect button and it will revert to home network and things are ok . It is a netgear DGN1000 and I tried another router same make and model, same problem. I use an ethernet cable on my desktop no problems.there's 3 laptops come in to occasional use and it's happened to them all . My early attempt was microsoft's fix for sticking in public mode . It is windows 7 pro on the laptops , ultimate on desktop?
I want to public to the internet a web + ftp server, all running in the same machine that now is a performance pc, in the future will be a qnap nas ts-220. I don't need extreme performance so my ISP gives me only 12 Mb down and 0,8 Mb up. I will use the nas as download station, ftp server and a web server when I'll public a personal site.
this is the config:
-modem/router adsl2+ that connects to the internet. ISP gives me dynamic ip! it has 192.168.0.1 ip and I think it cannot be changed.
-a firewall hardware zyxel usg 100 with all active UTM services. it has default ip 192.168.1.1. the netgear in the "attached devices" see the zyxel as 192.168.0.2, the same ip zyxel says to the wan1 port.
-a pc or, in the future, a nas that now has automatically assigned ip 192.168.1.34.
I must use a free or paied service as dyndns or something else. If the solution to retrieve everytime the dynamic ip is to set the ddns only in the router/modem netgear then it can only use dyndns.org or .com or .it with the dns of the associated ddns service. For example: if I set a dyndns.it account in the netgear I must set also the dns provided by dyndns.it because if I set google dns or something else the service cannot work.At the moment I tested only with a filezilla server running on the pc directly connected to the netgear, no zyxel in this test.
The config is:
netgear with ddns service provided by dyndns.it, activated with the username and password, in the wan I setup the dmz as 192.168.0.2, in the adsl settings setup the dyndns.it IPs. in the services of the netgear also provided a custom service with ports from 60000 to 60050 and created two rules one for outbound and one for inbound where I let data pass from the wan to the server in the lan 192.168.0.2.
filezilla running on the pc with windows 7 x64 with lan ip 192.168.0.2 mask 255.255.255.0 as th3 netgear and gateway of course the netgear 192.168.0.1. dns servers same as provided by dyndns.it. filezilla configured with only one anonym user without password for testing, default listening port is 60000, passive mode active with range 60000-60050 and for retrieving IP I set default, no Dyndns.it host cause it will not work.
So configured it works fine!problem is when I connect the zyxel between the netgear and the server.how change the default ip of zyxel? in configuration - ethernet - lan port is correct to set there the default and static ip to 192.168.0.3? there are many options! same as dmz you can set there the static ip and what ip?also when you want to public a server zyxel don't say nothing about port-forwarding. it says only create two address objects one with ip of the netgear and one with the ip of the dmz port then create a rule in the firewall section where you set wan to dmz and destination and origin ip selecting the two address objects previously created then you are ok...no, really no! and the ip of the firewall rules in the netgear? which ip do you must set? 192.168.0.2? or 192.168.0.5 if you set it up in the dmz port of the zyxel? no, it is a conflict so you must set another ip.to set correctly the server to be visible in the internet with the netgear + zyxel usg 100?
Currently, I have 2 Apple Airport Extremes, and 1 Wireless Netgear ADSL Router. The 2 AAEs are connected separately to the router, and this allows us to get coverage in most part of the house (it's a large house with concrete and granite walls). I also have a HP Officejet 8500 'wireless printer' that is wired to the router as you can only print to the printer when it's in standby with a physical connection to the router (that's a different story). So my goal is to replace everything as the router is slowly dying and as a result of this, I want to be able to access the Internet wirelessly throughout the house, and be able to print from any where in the house without anything connected via cables. And as a bonus, I would like the Internet to be accessible 100 yards/metres down the garden (workshop is there). Basically, blanket coverage!
I have an old, old Netgear 814v2 that I'd like to use as a switch to, in effect, extend my wireless range and allow other old hardware that is NOT WPA-capable to connect to my network. From what I've read, it ought to be fairly easy: disable DHCP on the Netgear, and connect the Netgear to the router via a LAN port not the WAN port. This should, I gather, convert the former router to a simple switch.Having done this: if I connect to the Netgear-turned-switch via a LAN port (cable) everything works fine (the computer gets valid IP's, subnet mask, DHCP server and DNS server IPs). Great! It's a switch!But if I connect via wireless it gets an oddball IP address out of range of the normal IP's for a client computer, and no default Gateway or DNS server IP's. Which is to say, hardwired network connection through the Netgear-turned-switch works fine; wireless works not at all.Why would the Netgear-turned-switch fail to pass through for wireless, and work just fine for wired? What am I missing?(For those who are concerned, if I get this to work, I'll provide security on the Netgear by specifying MAC addresses that can connect.
Currently using a netgear WG602 wireless router which i use to connect to my 2nd PC and Iphone, with the Netgear router running from my main PC.I have recently been having trouble with my 2nd PC ad Iphone randomly losing connection and the only way for the connection to be reastablished is to reboot the wireless router. Once rebooted i am able to connect again to the internet with no problems, interestingly enough my main PC never loses connection. Also sometimes when i lose my connection and reboot the wireless router i will have a IP conflict pop up on my 2nd PC however i would i say i get this once in every 10 dissconects and not all the time. Sometimes i won't dissconect at all in a day but sometimes i may dissconect 5-6 times.
